Interior Design: The Craftsman-Style Home

by Alane Jewel

 

There’s so much to love about the Craftsman-style home. The handcrafted stone and woodwork perfectly combined with other natural elements. The large front porches supported with beautiful columns and covered by low-pitched, often gabled roofs and impressive overhanging eves. The attention to detail combined with the feeling of a quintessential, cozy bungalow. The unique beauty of these homes is carried throughout the interior as well, proudly displaying the workmanship involved.

Craftsman Dining Room by Silver Spring Architects & Designers Gardner Mohr Architects LLC

Traditional Architectural Features & Color Palettes

The colors seen in Craftsman-style homes tend to complement the natural surroundings of their locale. Warm, earthy tones are quite popular for base colors, especially shades of beige, brown or green. Accent colors in red, orange and gold are often added to warm up a living space, and cooler colors such as grey or blue may be added to rooms where an abundance of natural light filters through. Colors are carefully chosen to coincide with natural elements while creating balance and harmony in the home.

Natural design elements including stone and wood are proudly exhibited throughout the home as well. Open floor plans effortlessly show off the rich, exposed wood beams, rafters and columns that are reminiscent of the arts and crafts home. Beautifully finished wood floors, trim, molding and wall paneling are typical, as are built-in features such as bookshelves, cabinetry or window seating. In the modern Craftsman home, woodwork may be stained or painted.

Flooring

Natural elements are most prominent when it comes to flooring. Beautifully stained wood floors enhance the craftsmanship of the other wood details in the home. Natural stone can also be an option as well as a variety of tile selections, such as terra cotta. Mosaic tiles are common but seen more in smaller spaces, such as entries or as an accent detail in traditional fireplace design or even countertops and bathrooms.

Windows and Lighting

There is often ample natural light in the traditional Craftsman home due to many large windows. It’s not uncommon to see these windows left undressed. However, simple drapery ensembles such as panels or sheers comprised of natural fibers can be used. Basic valences are also popular and still showcase the craftsmanship of the window design.

Stained glass has been beautifully incorporated into many traditional Craftsman homes in windows as well as wood accent pieces, such as built-in cabinets. When choosing light fixtures, consider stained glass as an option for both table lamps as well as hanging fixtures. They add amazing warmth to a space and are very complementary to the rich wood features prevalent in these homes.

Furnishings and Décor

Remember to consider natural materials when choosing interior décor to coincide with the arts and crafts philosophy. Typical craftsman furniture has defined, straight lines and is often made of wood adorned with natural fibers. Colored glass accents such as end tables are also commonly seen and further enhance the organic character of the home.

As a whole, décor in a Craftsman home should remain simple in order to not detract from the intricate workmanship already incorporated into the home. Standout pieces of pottery or vases make great accents, and large pieces of wall art including mirrors, framed art or canvasses are fantastic in moderation.

As you furnish your Craftsman-style home, remember that you are enhancing a handcrafted work of art to create your own one-of-a-kind, cozy bungalow.

Credit Set to Tighten Mid-November

by Jason Van Steenwyk

Credit for many homebuyers is about to get substantially tighter, come November 16.

No, it has nothing to do with the debt ceiling or the government shutdown or event the Federal Reserve. In this case, it’s a long-scheduled program changeover at Fannie Mae, which is planning to change the code on the “Desktop Underwriter” program. This is the computer software program lenders frequently use in the field to ensure their underwriting is on the same sheet as Fannie Mae’s.

What’s changing? Well, the minimum down payment for Fannie-compliant loans is going up – by 66 percent! That’s the net effect of the planned increase in minimum down payments, which is scheduled to increase from 3 percent to 5 percent.

 

That means buyers looking to own a $200,000 home are going to have to cough up an extra $4,000 down – the difference between a $6,000 down payment and a $10,000 down payment required at that price.

 

To avoid the increased down payment requirement, get those applications in by November 16! Or be prepared to come up with the upfront cash.

Other projected changes include a change in the maximum life of the loan written in the software. The new software will support a maximum life of loan (LOL!) of 30 years. Previously, the DU software allowed underwriters to plug in loan terms of up to 40 years.

The interest-only option – rarely used in recent years after having left lenders with a bad taste in their mouths thanks to overuse during the boom (read: lousy underwriting.) is also disappearing from the DU interface. Getting a Fannie-backed interest-only loan isn’t even on the radar screen anymore.

Fannie Mae is also tightening up the DTI calculations it applies to applicants for adjustable rate mortgages.

On the other hand, Fannie Mae is also cutting some borrowers some slack come November. Effective as of the November 16 update, Fannie Mae’s DU program will no longer automatically reject borrowers who had sold a previous home via a short sale. This was important because according to data from the National Association of Realtors®, 23 percent of agents reported working with buyers who had experienced a foreclosure or short salesince 2005. Nearly half of these agents – 46 percent – reported that these buyers could not obtain financing – usually (65 percent) as a result of the previous foreclosure or short-sale.

Furthermore, some of the rules regarding reestablishment of credit after a foreclosure or bankruptcy are being relaxed.

The change comes on the heels of tightening of FHA requirements earlier this year. The Federal Housing Administration made mortgage insurance premiums payable for the entire life of the loan, rather than shutting off when home equity reaches 22 percent – a rule that made FHA borrowing much more expensive over the life of the loan. The FHA also raised its fees,which effectively negate much of the benefit of having a low 3.5 percent down payment. The premium for mortgage insurance was also jacked up as well, from 1.25 to 1.35 percent for loans up to $635,000.

In addition, FHA made things more difficult for borrowers with FICO scores below 620.

Put the two together, and between FHA and Fannie Mae, the two giant institutions are working to choke off a substantial amount of demand from the housing market.

For the moment, we can afford it – largely because of the intense interest in residential real estate on the part of institutional investors. But the changes are bound to have an effect. We’re seeing it already in the decline of first-time buyers as a percentage of home purchases. While first-time homebuyers by definition don’t benefit from the loosening of credit for those with a previous foreclosure or short sale, they are most directly affected by the increases in down payment requirements. They are younger, on average, and have had little time to save up big down payments. Their biggest asset is time, along with their future earning potential over their working lives. The increases in down payment requirements hit this group right between the eyes.

In contrast, institutional investors generally pay with cash, or get financing from another source.

Deals are getting tighter, as well, as distressed home sales are declining sharply. As of August 2013, distressed sales, defined as the combined sales of foreclosed and short-sale properties were around 12 percent. That’s way down from early 2011 numbers, which neared 40 percent of all sales. Tightening requirements and jacking up fees now that we have a more healthy housing market is one way we have of replenishing capital reserves at mortgage insurance firms and lenders while cooling off demand a bit. Unfortunately, the cooling off of demand is concentrated in the starter-home market.

Preventing and Thawing Frozen Water Pipes

by Karie Fay

Water always expands as it freezes. For some homeowners, this spells trouble come winter. Temperatures drop, water pipes get cold enough to freeze, the water inside expands in the process – and a pipe bursts.

Taking steps now – before anything happens – allows you to avoid the hassle and mess frozen pipes create. If, however, you caught the problem too late and your pipes have already frozen, try thawing the pipes as soon as possible. Knowing how to prevent the problem and what to do if the worst happens will arm you with all the information you need to handle the situation properly.

Is Your Home at Risk?
In colder climates, homebuilders generally enclose water pipes inside the house’s insulation to protect them from extreme cold. Unfortunately, that’s not always enough. If temperatures drop low enough or a problem exists that allows cold air to reach the pipes, it can lead to a burst pipe. Cracks, holes, gaps or inadequate insulation can still lead to frozen pipes.

Homes in southern climates are more vulnerable than their northern neighbors due to the tendency to run pipes outside the building insulation, often in unheated crawlspaces and similar areas. Residents are less likely to be conscious of the problem, and the conditions under which their pipes are likely to freeze only happen a time or two each year, so it has likely never been an issue before … until it happens.

When is it Cold Enough for Pipes to Freeze?

Since plumbing pipes typically run inside the building envelope in colder climates, it usually takes colder outdoor temperatures to freeze. In more moderate regions, the “temperature alert threshold” is 20 degrees Fahrenheit, in contrast to about zero degrees F the cooler regions.

Temperature isn’t the only factor, however. Wind chill – the perceived temperature that results from the combination of temperature and moving air or wind speed – can accelerate freezing water or penetrate deeper into the home than air that is frigid but still. The pipe location also plays a role: A pipe running through the ceiling of an un-insulated basement, for example, would require colder temperatures to freeze completely than a pipe running along an outside wall in the same basement.

Which Pipes are Most Vulnerable to Freezing?

While any pipe or plumbing accessory can freeze, some are more likely to experience problems than others. Pay particular attention to these pipes and locations while performing preventative measures to protect them.

• 
  Outdoor hose bibs – In the fall while temperatures are still mild, detach any water hoses or accessories. Drain water from the hose, coil and store in a safe place. Next, turn off the water supply to the hose bib if possible. Many homes have a shut-off valve that controls only the outside faucet. Look in the basement or wherever the water first enters the home, from which point it routes throughout the house in various pipes. Turn on the bib outside and allow any remaining water to drain out.
  
  If you’re able to stop the water to the outdoor faucet, allow the bib to remain open until warmer temperatures in spring. This ensures that any water present in the pipe won’t expand and break it. If you’re unable to turn the water supply off, fit the bib with an insulated cover.

• 
  Swimming Pool and Water Sprinkler Lines – Before cold weather hits late in the fall, drain the water from your supply lines leading to the pool, sprinkler system or other item. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for best results. Do not flush or fill the lines with automotive antifreeze.

• 
  Crawlspaces, Attics and Other Unheated Areas – Even if the pipes are in an insulated area, if there’s no heat, they could get cold enough to freeze and burst. Insulate pipes running through un-insulated or unheated areas, both hot and cold water pipes. (Hot water pipes can also freeze if they stand long enough in cold enough weather.) Make a habit of looking over your pipes every autumn to ensure the insulation in good shape.

• 
  Pipes Running Along Exterior Walls – Any air penetration in a wall, or a poorly insulated wall, leaves your plumbing lines vulnerable to freezing temperatures. Not only is this a hazard during winter weather, it also means higher heating and cooling bills due to air leaks and lack of insulation. So while insulating pipes in these areas makes good sense to prevent them from freezing, the wise choice is to seal and insulate the walls whenever possible. Expanding foam insulation is an excellent choice for sealing larger gaps or filling in around door and window framing. Other winterizing and weatherproofing measures will ensure you save energy while also protecting your water pipes.

When Frigid Temperatures Strike

Even in the coldest, most miserable weather, you can further protect your plumbing by taking a few additional steps. Even if you’re not home at the time, you can still protect your pipes.

• 
  Turn on your faucets. Probably the single most important preventative action during a subfreezing spell is to turn on a faucet – or one faucet per water line. It doesn’t have to be much: Even a slow trickle of water ensures the water remains flowing, and flowing water freezes with more difficulty.

• 
  Open Doors. Underneath kitchen and bathroom sinks, inside cabinets, the temperature can be much lower than in the room. Open up the doors to allow air to circulate. This also applies to bathroom doors or any room in which you have a faucet or water-filled appliance. Keep the doors open to help battle frozen plumbing lines.

• 
  Close up the garage. If you have water lines running through your garage, keeping the garage doors shut helps keep the temperature and wind chill higher.

• 
  Raise your thermostat. Keep your thermostat setting a little higher when the temperatures drop below freezing. If you normally lower the temperature at night, leave it at the daytime setting. If you have a high-efficiency home that’s super-insulated, this may not be necessary.

• 
  Prepare for an absence. If you will be away from home for an extended period of time, plan for your pipes. First, keep your thermostat set at a minimum of 55 degrees F. This will prevent the inside temperature from plummeting into the danger zone.

• 
  Ask someone you trust to visit daily. Have them flush the toilet, run a couple of faucets, and look around to ensure your pipes are fine.

• 
  Consider draining your water system. If you can’t have someone come by your house, this is another option. Shut off the water supply and drain the lines and fixtures. An empty pipe will not burst.

How Do I Turn Off My Water Supply?

Typically, residential water has two main water shut-off valves: The first, called a corporation stop, is underneath the street. You will find the second near the water meter. Depending on your location, this may be on the side of your home, buried in the ground near the street, in your basement, or another location readily accessible to you. You probably have other shut-offs on the lines leading to the fixture.

When Pipes Freeze

What you need to do to treat a frozen pipe varies depending on whether it’s simply frozen – a pain, but not a tragedy – or whether it burst and possibly caused water damage in your home. The sooner you recognize the problem and take action the better. A pipe with a 1/8-inch crack will spray up to 250 gallons in 24 hours, reports Goodfellow Air Force Base. At that point you don’t simply need a plumber to replace the plumbing, you also have a flood on your hands. Floors, walls, furniture, personal items – all can be destroyed in the process. Then there’s the mold that can quickly start to grow. While burst pipes make the problem obvious, if you’re lucky, you’ll find out before an eruption. You’ll turn on a faucet and nothing will flow. That’s when you’ll know a pipe’s frozen.

• 
  Turn off the water. If you can’t access your home’s water shut-off valve, call the local water company and ask for emergency service.

• 
  Open your faucets. Not only does this help relieve pressure in conjunction with shutting off the water source, it also gives soon-to-be-melted water a place to go. It also encourages the ice to melt.

• 
  Turn off your water heater. Allowing an empty water heater to run is damaging, and your water supply may be off for quite some time.

• 
  Start thawing your pipes. You have several options when it comes to thawing your plumbing lines. The only option you don’t have is to wait, doing nothing. Time is of the essence – the longer the ice sits undisturbed, the more likely the pipe will break, if it hasn’t already. Even if you’re dealing with a flood inside your home, you can work to melt the ice at the same time.

How to Thaw Frozen Water Pipes

Choose the methods that work best for you. If you try your faucet and it still appears clogged with ice, be patient. De-icing your water lines may take longer than you expect. Most important, never hurry the process by using unsafe methods. Open flames and extremely high temperatures such as blowtorches, charcoal stoves and kerosene or propane heaters are dangerous. Using them on frozen pipes may result in melting plastic pipes, boiling the water inside and causing an explosion, igniting fumes or worse. Also, to prevent shock, never stand in water while handling any electrical item.

• 
  Turn up the temperature. Raise the temperature inside your home. Open doors and use fans as necessary to direct warm air into the room or area containing the frozen pipe.

• 
  Use a space heater. Be especially cautious if using a space heater inside the home. Keep the heater at least 3 feet away from the pipe and any surrounding materials. Observe during use.

• 
  Wrap the frozen pipe with a heating pad. Use an electric model or use your imagination. A towel, heated in the microwave and wrapped around the pipe will work, as will towels soaked in hot water (just make sure you don’t allow it to freeze to the pipe).

• 
  Turn on the hair dryer. Directing the heat at the pipe from a distance of about 6 to 8 inches away. Give the hair dryer breaks to prevent overheating.

• 
  Use electric pipe heating tape. Available at home improvement stores, it will thaw the ice safely.

• 
  Call a plumber. Licensed plumbers have a special tool that melts the ice via an electrical charge.

Help! My Drain is Frozen!

If you’re dealing with a frozen drainpipe, try the same methods as those mentioned above. Alternatively, try pouring very hot water down the drainpipe. Do it slowly to prevent an overflow. A snake may knock the ice free in some instances. Goodfellow Air Force Base advises you can even attach a section of rubber tubing to a kettle’s spout, insert the other end into the drain, and allow water to boil, creating steam. The steam will gradually melt the ice. At least, that’s how the GIs do it!

Retirement Planning: Will Owning A Home Help You Retire?

There was a time when nobody had doubts about the value of owning a home. It was considered an incredible long-term investment and ideal for retirement. Today we know that real estate isn’t as safe as we once thought it was, at least as a short-term investment, and Americans, young and old, are leery of sinking their life savings into a home as an investment. Knowing this, will owning a home help you retire? That depends on a number of factors, including when you purchase the home.

If you buy the home in advance of retirement, when you have the time to build equity, then yes, the home may help you retire. If you are thinking of buying your first home in retirement, there could be problems.

Timing

Ideally, a home purchased to help you financially during retirement is one that will be paid off by the time you bring in the shingle. Unfortunately, that doesn’t happen for many homeowners. Forbes.com claims that although almost half of Americans aged 50 to 70 say they plan on using their home’s equity to fund their retirement, 37 percent of them are not anywhere near having their mortgages paid off.

That’s OK, though, according to Sydney Lagier, former certified public accountant. “With interest rates so low right now,” she says, “a mortgage can be an excellent hedge against inflation.”

Lagier claims that inflation is expected to soar in the near future, eroding the worth of today’s dollar. While this hurts those with savings and investments, it does the opposite with debt.

“A mortgage enables you to lock in today’s home price, but pay for it with tomorrow’s inflated dollars,” Lagier claims.

If inflation is a concern, Lagier suggests taking the money that you would have used to pay off the mortgage prior to retirement and investing it in Treasury Inflation-Protected Securities.

Reverse Mortgage

If you have paid off the mortgage, or at least a significant chunk of it, pre-retirement, there’s always the reverse mortgage to fall back on should you need to tap your equity. Of course, you won’t realize as much as you would were you to sell the home, but it’s “money you get to use while you are alive and pay back when you’re dead,” according to Lagier.

Offered to Americans 62 years of age or older, the reverse mortgage doesn’t come without risks. Although you won’t be making house payments, you’ll still be required to keep up the property tax payments, HOA fees, and homeowners insurance. Default on any of those and you risk foreclosure. Which is why, according to Lagier, the reverse mortgage is considered a “loan of last resort.”

Income Property

Many experts claim that the purchase of income property is a far better retirement investment than depending on being able to tap into your primary home’s equity. This investment property could even be your retirement home, rented out until you stop working.

The best time to buy this home is at least five to 10 years before you retire, according to Michele Lerner in an Associated Press article. She also cautions about the risks you take in losing liquidity when you tie up your money in a second home.

The ideal candidate for this scenario is one who has built up an emergency cushion of at least one year’s worth of expenses – both current expenses and those they’ll take on with a second property.

Don’t disregard other risks, such as the maintenance costs for two homes. Appliance and major system failures can be costly to remedy, and if you lack liquidity, they could be catastrophic.

Rent or Buy?

Whether to purchase or rent a home is a common question when folks near retirement. Since rents are rising 5 to 6 percent a year on average, and interest rates are still incredibly low, it appears on the surface that buying is a better option. Dig a little deeper, and it is even more apparent.

With a fixed-rate mortgage your monthly house payment won’t change over the life of the loan. Rent? At least once a year or whenever the lease is up for renewal, you’ll face a possible rent hike.

Whether or not owning a home will help you retire depends on variables such as your current financial situation, your investment portfolio, and how many years you plan on working. A good financial planner is your best source of information.

Inviting everyone to our open house Tomorrow, 10/25/13 on this beautiful Home in Anchorage, AK

Come see all its amazing features Today, October 25, at 4pm-6pm. This event will be hosted by Miki Davis and you may reach her at

907-229-9103. Please bring your friends and buyers. Appetizers will be served.

 

We also have vacant lots available:

 

 

Brought to you by:

Les Bailey & Associates Real Estate Team

Keller Williams Alaska Group

Direct: 907-694-1234

Toll Free: 1-800-784-2912

DIY Toolkit: Essential Tools For Minor House Repairs

DIY Toolkit: Essential Tools For Minor House Repairs

It takes time to build a complete DIY toolkit. Start with the essentials, and build on your collection as you take on new projects. Eventually, you will become proficient at a wide range of DIY home projects – and your toolkit will reflect this (as will your wallet, considering the money you will save on hiring someone to do it for you!).

 

A Basic DIY Tool Collection

• Hammer: From hanging a picture to replacing wall molding and millions of DIY projects in between, a hammer is probably the most-used tool there is. Don’t choose just any hammer. Select a claw hammer – a hammer with a claw on one end for pulling nails and prying material – with a flat peen (the surface which drives nails) rather than rounded.

• 
  Tape Measure: Many home repair and improvement tasks require a tape measure. Get a retractable tape measure, which is made of a rigid metal and snaps back into the case when you push a button. For most jobs, a 25-foot tape measure is sufficient.

• 
  Carpenter’s Level: With a good level you have a straightedge for cut lines and a tool to tell you if an item is flush (straight up and down) or level (perfectly flat). Don’t let the store’s selection overwhelm you – a basic 4-foot bubble level, which uses air bubbles inside a liquid-filled cavity, is basic but dependable.
  

• Carpenter’s Square: Get both a speed square, which is hand-held, and a larger framing square when possible. Squares are great straightedges, tape measures and right-angle testers.
  

• Utility Knife: Whether you call it a box cutter, razor knife, or any of several common terms, a utility knife is a DIY tool essential. Your utility knife makes quick work of slicing through drywall, carpet, linoleum, rigid foam insulation and many other materials. Keep a supply of razor blades in the knife’s hollow body.
  

• Flashlight: From peering underneath your foundation to working in the dark to restore power to your breaker box, your flashlight will shed some light on various tasks.
  

• Screwdrivers: If you plan to limit your DIY ventures to basic carpentry and fixture installation, a handful of screwdrivers will get you started. Choose both Phillips-head screwdrivers (which have a cross-shaped tip) and flat-head screwdrivers (with a knife-shaped tip). More advanced repairs may require different heads. To save money, consider a multi-bit screwdriver with interchangeable tips.
  

• Pliers: If you need to pull staples, cut wire, or loosen tight connections, pliers will help. Look for three basic types: needle-nose pliers (which have a pointed end), side-cutting pliers (which look much like scissors) and adjustable flat-nose pliers (aka flat-head pliers).
  

• Wrenches: When pliers won’t get the job done, look for your wrench. Grip or remove pipes, nuts, bolts and other stubborn household items. Start with a set of adjustable crescent wrenches for all-around usefulness.
  

• Staple Gun: A staple gun comes in handy for installing faced fiberglass batt insulation, hanging plastic sheeting and other projects around the home. Manual staple guns require a little more muscle but eliminate the need for electricity.
  

• Drill: Once you have a drill, you’ll wonder how you ever got along without one. From simple tasks such as hanging curtains to more complex jobs like replacing wood flooring, a drill – cordless or not – makes it easier. A cordless drill is more convenient but has a limited battery life.
  

• Saws: Two basic saws will see you through most general DIY home projects. First, select a handsaw for places where you don’t have power or for situations where a power saw just isn’t practical. Next, decide on either a table saw or a circular saw. A table saw is sturdy and makes cutting boards and other material easy. However, a circular saw is portable and hand-held, making it more convenient. When you’re ready for a new saw, consider a jigsaw or reciprocating saw.
  

• Stud Finder: A stud finder will help you quickly find the framing members in your walls, ceiling and floor.

• 
  Orbital Sander: Small enough to easily control with one hand, an orbital sander is perfect for basic work. Keep a supply of sandpaper, of various grits, on hand.

• 
  Ladder: Depending on the jobs you anticipate tackling, you might prefer a stepladder instead of an extension ladder. Extension ladders are useful outdoors and reach higher, but stepladders work inside or outside.

All of the tools in the world won’t help you if you don’t have accompanying supplies. Keep wood glue, superglue and caulk in your supplies. Add an assortment of nails, screws, bolts and nuts to your tool collection as well. Don’t forget tape: masking tape, electrical tape and duct tape in particular. A heavy-duty extension cord is essential. Your collection will continue to grow over the course of your DIY adventures.

DIY Flooring Installation

in Home Improvement

Installing a new floor is a great way to liven up your house. Before you change your floor, however, you need to decide what type of flooring is best suited to your budget and lifestyle. Hardwood floors are a classic choice, while many homeowners prefer the ease of tile or the affordability of laminate flooring. While some floors can be installed by an inexperienced homeowner, other floor types require the services of a professional or an experienced handyman.

Hardwood Flooring

Hardwood floors have always been a popular choice. Beautiful, traditional wood floors can last a lifetime if properly maintained and, because hardwood floors are more hygienic than carpet, they are a good choice for people with allergies. The National Wood Flooring Association, points out that wood is:

• Low-maintenance
• Renewable
• Recyclable
• Varied
• Enduring

Hardwood floor types can be new or salvaged and might be smooth, distressed, or hand-scraped for an antique look. Stains give you a variety of color choices, even allowing oak to masquerade as rare exotic lumber. Research all your options before investing in a hardwood floor, as each of the many choices offers advantages of its own.

Maintaining Hardwood Floors

Prefinished hardwood flooring can be expensive, but it is easy to maintain. To keep your hardwood floor looking its best, you should put down area rugs in places that get a lot of foot traffic. You should also damp mop your floor frequently to remove dust and dirt. If your hardwood floors get a few minor scratches, you can repair them with a touch-up stick. Solid hardwood floors can be refinished if they have a lot of scuffmarks, which is one advantage over other products like laminate flooring.

Installing Hardwood Flooring

If you have never installed any type of flooring, you might want to hire a professional to lay your hardwood floors. Get an estimate, ask for references and never pay for the entire job upfront. If you do decide to do it yourself, do your homework because installing flooring can be tricky. The following tools are needed for installing hardwood floors:

• Circular saw
• Measuring tape
• Nail gun or hammer
• Table saw
• T-square
• Floor sealant
• Nails
• Safety glasses

According to Steve Seabaugh, director of technical education for the NWFA, installers of wood floors must take care to:

• Check the subfloor for flatness.
• 
  Avoid laying over particleboard, which does not hold nails well.
• Acclimatize wood to the space in which it will be installed.

Laying hardwood floors takes time, and this last step adds several days to your project calendar. The flooring should sit in your home for at least 48 hours before installation in order to expose it to the room’s environment. This allows it to expand or contract according to the temperature and humidity of the room. If this takes place after the floor is laid, you’ll wind up with shifting boards and uneven flooring. In addition to this brief period of acclimatization, plan to spend at least a few full days installing hardwood floors, depending on the size of your home.

Quick-Growing Alternatives to Hardwoods

Some homeowners choose cork or bamboo floors as an alternative to hardwood. These faster-growing products can be “green” in more ways than one – gentle on the planet and on your wallet. Prefinished bamboo is made from a grass and performs much like hardwood when it’s used as flooring. Cork is a wood-bark product that can also make an attractive floor. According to BuildGreen’s independently published Environmental Building News, the most eco-friendly bamboo floors are those with Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification.

Tile Flooring

Tile is another beautiful choice and a great option for DIY flooring. The price of tile varies greatly because there are so many choices, from ceramics and terra-cotta to marble and slate. Regardless of the price, tile is extremely durable and will last for decades with proper care.

Before installing new floors, you should first learn as much as you can about how to tile. Many hardware stores and home centers offer classes in tiling. You can also hire a professional to install your tile floor, but this will greatly increase the price of your total flooring expenses.

When you do undertake a tiling job, be sure you already understand the process. You’ll need to be sure your subfloor is suitable and then create a level bed of mortar. Tiles will be set according to a careful plan, with room left between for grout. After the mortar has set, you’ll fill the gaps with grout, carefully wiping the surface of the tiles as you go. Finally, a week or more later, you’ll seal the grout to protect it from stains.

Tile-Laying Supplies

The basic supplies for laying tile include:

• Grout floats
• Mortar trowels
• Sponges
• Tile cutters
• Tile grout, mortar, and sealant
• Tile saw
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Level
• 
  Rags and a sponge

Installing tile flooring will take time, as grout and mortar take several days to dry. You should expect to get your hands dirty during this process, but the end result will be one of the most easily maintained flooring options out there.

Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring is made from a synthetic material that looks like hardwood or tile. Laminate flooring is a great choice for anyone who wants the look of hardwood or tile but doesn’t have a big budget to work with. Laminate flooring is usually less than half the cost of hardwood floors.

Another advantage of laminate flooring is that almost anyone can install it. For most types of laminate flooring, the manufacturer’s instructions are easy to follow and the pieces snap into place for “lock and click” installation. According to the North American Laminate Flooring Association, glue and fasteners are usually not required. Durability and affordability are listed by NALFA alongside ease of installation as reasons to consider a laminate floor.

Eco-friendly Laminates

Environmental concerns can sway consumers towards laminates, too. A product with NALFA’s green seal will have the following features, according to the association’s website:

• Natural ingredients such as wood chips
• Recyclability
• Low emissions
• Recycled content
• No VOC-producing installation adhesives

Easy to Buy, Install and Maintain

Caring for and maintaining laminate floors is very easy – simply sweep or wet-mop regularly. With excellent care, laminate floors can last up to 20 years. The time and skill required to install a laminate floor are relatively low, making this a popular choice for first-time DIY floor installations.

A Floor for Every Lifestyle

Whether you choose easy laminates, classic hardwoods, or beautiful tile, your floor will help define your home’s personality. By matching your budget, taste, and skill to the best product for you, you can find a DIY flooring solution that will make your home more comfortable, beautiful, and valuable.