Monday, December 23, 2013

Last minute gifts that cost nothing but time

By Mary Farrell

 

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Days are numbered for procrastinators who haven’t yet started their holiday shopping. But you don’t have to venture into the mall if you don’t want to. Instead of buying a token gift, give your friend or neighbor something that costs you little and benefits them a lot—time. Buy a nice card and insert an IOU offering to walk their dog, do some yard work or home repairs, or drive them to an appointment. Here are some ideas to get you started.

Clear the snow
Maybe you have a snow blower and your neighbor doesn’t. If you’ve already bundled up to clear your own driveway, why not do theirs as well? In Consumer Report’s snow blower tests we measure removal speed, throwing distance, surface cleaning and plow pile removal. The best snow blowers in our tests get excellent marks on all tasks, including the two-stage Cub Cadet 31AH57S, $1,500, and Cub Cadet 930SWE 31AH95SU, $1,600. Even if you clear snow the old-fashioned way, with a shovel, it’ll be appreciated. Who knows, you might even find their daily newspaper under the white stuff.

Help with home repairs
Everyone has a loose towel rod or a picture that needs hanging. Ask your gift recipient to make a short list of small repairs and pledge to spend an afternoon fixing them. At Consumer Reports, we test drills for all skill levels. Our top general use drill/driver is the Hitachi DS18DSAL, $170, followed closed by models from Makita, Ridgid,DeWalt and Panasonic. For lighter tasks, try the Hitachi DS14DSFL, $140.

Make a meal
For a single working Mom or a family with children in lots of after-school activities, a homemade meal delivered to the door is a good thing. And thanks to Chinet, you don’t even have to ask for your dish back. In the supermarket, look for Chinet’s paper bakeware, which in our tests proved to be a tough baking dish that can be used in a regular oven and then migrate to a microwave oven.

Clean the house
Some people prefer to clean before company arrives and others like to clean up after they leave. Offer to expend some elbow grease vacuuming or dusting, or washing floors or bathrooms. In our tests of vacuum cleaners, many got excellent scores for bare floors, including the top-rated Kenmore Progressive 21714 canister, $400, and the Kirby Sentria, $1,350. But it’s the carpet and pet hair tests that separate the best from the rest. For cleaning the kitchen or the bathroom, our all-purpose cleaner of choice is PineSol Original, which was the only one in our tests that didn’t leave streaks on the mirror.

Do the laundry

With all the wrinkle-free fabrics these days, steam irons don’t get the workout they once did. But after the holidays there may be tablecloths or napkins to wash, iron, and put away. In our tests of steam irons, thePanasonic NI-W950A, $220, topped all others due to its prodigious steaming rate. It was excellent on all ironing tasks, including linen tablecloths. For laundry, our top laundry detergent is Tide Ultra plus Bleach Vivid White + Bright HE.

Walk the dog
The beauty of taking care of your neighbor’s dog from time to time is you can enjoy the companionship without the vet bills. Many working families have pets that, by necessity, are cooped up in the house all day. That’s where you come in, especially if you have a flexible schedule. There’s nothing like being greeted at the door by a happy pup.

Drive to an appointment
Next time your neighbor has to go to the eye doctor or dentist, offer to drive. That way if they have an eye-blurring exam or need pain killers for that dental work, they’ll get safe passage home. Take a book or enjoy the guilty pleasure of reading the celebrity magazines in the doctor’s offices. Win-win.

Mow the lawn
Once spring arrives, this seasonal chore will be necessary again. For your neighbor, it’ll be like Christmas in April. Our top mowers are champs at mulching and mowing and we also rate how they handle. Models from Honda and Toro top the list of self-propelled mowers and our top push mower is from Cub Cadet. For larger lawns, we liked tractors from Snapper and John Deere.

--Mary H.J. Farrell

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Two story wood frame home that has been recently updated with stylish interior and excellent features in Eagle River!

Just listed for $395,000
15044 Terrace Lane Eagle River, AK 99577

This spaciously designed home has recently been updated with excellent features, such as, two master suites located on the main level. The second floor boasts a large living space, as well as two bedrooms and a full bathroom. The finished attic is the perfect place for a playroom or game room and includes a bathroom, making the space even more functional. The home includes a full wrap around porch

 

We also have vacant lots available.

Brought to you by:


Les Bailey & Associates Real Estate Team

Keller Williams Alaska Group

Direct: 907-694-1234

Toll Free: 1-800-784-2912

www.LesBaileyAndAssociates.com

Monday, December 16, 2013

Peaceful Playrooms Made Possible

by Laura Leist

Most parents would agree that when you have young kids, it can feel like the entire house turns into the playroom. If you are ready to reclaim your space, and keep toys out from under your feet, it may be time for a fun-filled family activity: organizing the playroom!

As a first step, get your children on board. Explain to them the goals of your organizing project, what their role is, and that they may need to consider giving away some of the toys they no longer play with so that less-fortunate children can enjoy them. This organizing project can be an exercise in letting go and sharing. Or, if you have an enterprising child, they can set up a garage sale or sidewalk sale to sell some items to people in the neighborhood.

Next, consider the zones you would like in your playroom. A playroom should be divided into a few zones to maintain the space and make cleanup a breeze. Create a “library” zone for books, a station for arts and crafts, an open space for play, and a parking area for play strollers, trucks, etc.

Storage is the key ingredient to keeping a playroom orderly and usable. I have seen many storage styles work, but one of my favorite techniques involves shelves with cubbies, which allow you to add designated baskets and categorize play items. Fabric or wicker baskets are perfect for corralling items such as toy cars, Legos®, building blocks and other small play items. Other cubbies can be left open for books, puzzles and larger toys. Cubby storage provides more space than you might anticipate because by organizing and consolidating similar items into baskets, you will gain space for new categories and items. Baskets can be labeled with words or pictures, making cleanup easier because everything has an obvious place.

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Contemporary Kids by San Diego Interior Designers & Decorators Style On a Shoestring

You can install built-in shelves with cubbies for bins and baskets that kids can access easily. I like the idea of bins on drawer tracks that kids can just dip into for their toys. If you’re not quite ready to commit an entire wall to permanent storage, consider adding single shelves within your child’s reach to free up more floor space for play. These shelves can hold baskets, bins and books.

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Traditional Kids by Amsterdam Media & Bloggers Iris


Open bins are a highly functional option because kids can see the contents without having to pull baskets down from shelves. They are especially great for smaller, less independent children who need easy access to their toys. These can be found in a variety of styles and can be stacked to create a more dedicated storage system. Toy trunks are great for smaller children and can be used for things like dress-up clothes and larger plush toys. If you choose to have a toy trunk, avoid using it as your single storage solution. Limit the items in a toy trunk to one or two categories that can be easily maintained. As your child grows, toy trunks can be repurposed as storage for school art projects and mementos.

If you don’t have a separate playroom, but have a family room that doubles as play space, you may want to dedicate shelf space to toy bins or the inside of a storage bench or ottoman. A freestanding storage bench offers more than just comfy seating; it doubles as a space to store games, toys, books, and art supplies. Some benches have lids that open to reveal storage space, but you can also find benches with cubby space for baskets to match the décor of your family room.

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Picture via kidspacestuff.com

At the end of the day, play spaces are meant to be enjoyed, even If it means creating a big mess. As long as you have the right storage solutions for cleanup time, your children can continue to enjoy their toys and their imaginations.

Warmly,


Laura Leist, CPO
Organizing with Laura

Friday, December 13, 2013

How To Depersonalize Your Home For Sale

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Making the decision to sell your home begins a journey of a thousand steps. From hiring a real estate agent to getting the home ready for the market, there is a lot to do.

 

Luckily, homeowners have a tool belt full of items that make the job easier. The most powerful tool of them all is decorating – better known as staging. Done right, staging your home will help it sell faster and for more money.

Before you hire a decorator, or decide to do it yourself, you’ll need an appropriate backdrop – a clean, uncluttered space. Otherwise, staging the home is like putting lipstick on a pig.

Why De-clutter?

There are several reasons homeowners should clear their homes of the clutter accumulated from daily living. First, clutter makes people anxious.

The results of a nine-year long UCLA study show that there is “real psychological stress associated with clutter.”

The last thing you want a potential buyer to feel is stress or anxiety when touring your home.

Since most clutter in a home is a collection of personal items, depersonalizing the home goes hand-in-hand with clearing clutter. Sure, all those personal items are what makes your house a home, but too many of them may hinder its sale.

Buyers need to be able to imagine what it would be like living in your home, surrounded by their belongings. Your stuff detracts from their ability to do that.

Depersonalizing: What’s Involved?

Depersonalizing is the act of removing most items of a personal nature. Family photographs, souvenirs, collections, DVD and CD collections and framed diplomas, degrees and awards are a few examples of items to pack up and store.

Getting Started

Since you’ll need boxes for the move, buying them now saves work later on. Buy several boxes for each room in the house, and don’t forget newspaper or other packing material to protect breakables.

The best way to go about depersonalizing the home is to do it one room at a time.

Living Room and Family Room

Since this is where families spend most of their time, these rooms will most likely take the longest. Items to remove include:

  • Toy bins or boxes.
  • Toys (including pet toys).
  • Family photos.
  • DVDs, video games and CDs.
  • Excess magazines and catalogs.
  • Newspapers.
  • Craft items.
  • Clothing.


Kitchen

Now we move from the most challenging room to the easiest room to depersonalize – the kitchen. The biggest clutter catcher in this room is the refrigerator. Remove the magnets, sticky note reminders, kids’ artwork and personal photographs. In fact, remove everything from the front, sides and top of the refrigerator. Unless it’s decorative, pack it all up.

Many families use the kitchen counter as a mail drop. There’s nothing particularly wrong with that, but mail is highly personal and needs to be put away, out of sight.

Bedrooms

Since bedrooms are the most personal of all the spaces in a home, they can be challenging to depersonalize. Remove family photos, of course, but you may need to go beyond that. Imagine a posh hotel room and remove anything from the bedrooms that you wouldn’t find in one.

Bathrooms

Bathrooms tend to become cluttered with personal products. While it isn’t necessary to pack these items up, it is crucial that they be put out of sight in cupboards and drawers.

Don’t forget the shower stall or bathtub. Buyers will pull back the shower curtain. Would you want to be greeted by pumice stones, shampoo bottles or kids’ water toys? Again, think of a posh hotel bathroom and try to imitate that look.

Home Office

The home office is typically one of the most cluttered rooms in the home and also a hot selling feature, so it’s important to create a vignette that appeals to the target market for the home.

Attack the walls first, taking down awards, diplomas and degrees, and photos.

Clear the desk of mail, work papers and professional journals and magazines.

As you work on depersonalizing each room in the home, don’t just throw the items in the boxes. Wrap and pack for the move and then take the boxes to a storage facility.

Don’t forget to organize what’s left in the room – it puts you one step closer to staging the home.

Thursday, December 12, 2013

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Just Listed! An income-generating home with breathtaking mountain views in Eagle River!

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111528 Borealis Street Eagle River, AK 99577

Income property! This home has a 3 bed unit up with mountain views. Downstairs is a 2 bed unit and is perfect for renting out if you live in the owners unit or for extended family stays.... There is a huge over sized garage, additional parking and private laundry for each unit. The lot has mature apple trees and perennials throughout. This is not a drive by, get inside and see all the potential.

Price: $312,500

  • Phone#: 907-694-1234
  • Income Property
  • Property Type: Multi Family; Style: Multi-Level.
  • Bedrooms: 5; Total Baths: 3; Garage: 1, attached
  • Year Built: 1957; Sq. Feet: 2,536;
  • Heat: Baseboard; Lot Size: 0.17 acre; Views: Mountains
  • Shed 
  • See a quick tour of this property!
  • Features-MultiFamily: CO Detector(s); Tenant Storage; Washer/Dryer HkUp; Paved Driveway; Laminate Flooring; Shed; Vaulted Ceiling

 

 

We also have vacant lots available.

 

Brought to you by:

Les Bailey & Associates Real Estate Team

Keller Williams Alaska Group

Direct: 907-694-1234

Toll Free: 1-800-784-2912

www.LesBaileyAndAssociates.com

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Tips for Moving Your Valuables

by RealEstate.com Guest Contributor

 

When preparing to move, the thought of packing overwhelms just about everyone. Whether you decide to pack up your belongings by yourself or hire a moving company to do the job, the entire process can be a headache. But it doesn’t need to turn into heartbreak. Here are a few tips to follow to make sure your valuables don’t get lost or damaged during the move.

Keep Important Valuables With You at All Times

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It’s nice to pack up as many things as possible in order to travel lightly, but if you’ll be moving a family heirloom, you might want to think twice before relinquishing it to a moving company.

There are a handful of items you should consider keeping by your side throughout the move. Try to maintain possession of birth certificates, passports and other forms of ID, prescription medications, valuable pieces of jewelry, any

one-of-a-kind or irreplaceable items like photos and sentimental things, smartphones, laptops, and any important documents you may need to close on your home.

Take Inventory and Get Insurance

You should always take inventory of your belongings before you move. Documenting every little thing you own isn’t realistic, but making a list of your more significant possessions and taking photographs of those items in their original condition can be very helpful should something go wrong.


Anything that goes on a moving truck needs to be covered by insurance. Check your homeowners insurance policy to see if it covers a move. If not, many moving companies offer additional insurance you can purchase. Just remember that it will be easier to make a claim against insurance if you took the time to itemize and document the original state of your items.


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Use the Right Boxes

 

Did you know that there are boxes specially made to transport flat-screen TVs? They have padding to keep the screen safe. There are also special wardrobe boxes designed to pack your hanging clothes. And there are even specialty boxes for stemware, which can be particularly difficult to pack.

 

Take the time to find the right packing materials and don’t skimp. Even though you may wince at spending $20 on one box, think of it as an investment – a little cost upfront can save you a lot of expense on the back end by avoiding unnecessary damage!

How to Pack Dishes & Artwork

Pack dishes with numerous layers of paper, and stand them in the box on their side rather than flat-side down. By packing them this way, there’s a smaller chance that they will break if something accidentally bumps the side of the box. When packing mirrors, artwork, or anything else under glass, use masking tape (or painter’s tape) to apply an X across the glass surface. The tape will help keep the glass from shattering; you may have seen this technique used on storefront windows during hurricane preparations.


Boxing Basics: The Right Way to Box


Common sense will tell you that when you’re packing items into a box, the heavier items belong on the bottom. But don’t forget to apply that same logic when stacking fully packed boxes. Heavier boxes should always be at the bottom of the pile.


To avoid unnecessary shifting of your fragile things, gently shake your boxes as you pack them to make sure the items are not moving. If there’s movement, add more packing materials. Be sure to tape the top of each box instead of just folding in the box tops.


Lastly, make sure you pack all the boxes to the top so they don’t cave in when something is stacked on top!

Monday, December 9, 2013

Decoding Mortgage Terms | Realty 101


Here are some interesting terms with definition that may come in handy just in case you want to buy or sell a property in the future.

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Friday, November 8, 2013

Spacious, lovely & cozy home with RV parking and awesome mountain views only in Palmer

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8443 E Highlander Circle Palmer, AK 99645

Located on a private 2 acre lot, this home is a must see. It is loaded with additional features such as a built in pantry, Jack/Jill bathroom, large master suite with a soaker tub, and much more. The 3 car garage allows plenty of room for all of your storage and Alaskan toys. The crawl space is more like a walk space with a very high ceiling.


Just Listed!



  • Price: $345,000

    Phone#: 907-694-1234

  • Horse Property
  • Property Type: Single Family; Style: Multi-Level, two story traditional
  • Bedrooms: 4; Total Baths: 3; Garage: 3, attached and heated
  • Year Built: 2004; Sq. Feet: 2,487;
  • Heat: Forced Air; Lot Size: 2.0; Views: Mountains
  • RV Parking, 
  • See details, as well as a quick tour of this property here!

  • Additional Features: Covenant/Restriction; Deck/Patio; Private Yard; Fire Service Area; Garage Door Opener; Landscaping; Road Service Area; Lot-Corner; Lot-Bluff; Home Warranty; DSL/Cable Available; Paved Driveway; Cable TV

 

We also have vacant lots available.

 

Brought to you by:

 

Les Bailey & Associates Real Estate Team

Keller Williams Alaska Group

Direct: 907-694-1234

Toll Free: 1-800-784-2912

www.LesBaileyAndAssociates.com

Thursday, November 7, 2013

Wells, Water Quality and Residential Water Testing

Water Testing

In urban and suburban areas where municipal water supplies are the norm, water quality is consistent from one home to the next. In more rural areas, however, water supplies must be carefully assessed to be sure they meet standards of healthfulness and abundance year-round. Springs and wells can be wonderful water sources, but certain tests should be performed before you commit to buying a home with an independent water supply.

Well Water Quality and Safety

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, about 15 percent of American homes are supplied by private water sources. Privately owned wells are not governed by the EPA, so homeowners must be particularly proactive about ensuring the quality of well water. If you're considering buying a home that uses a well as its primary water source, it's advisable to insist that the well water be tested. Well water quality varies widely and can be contaminated by a variety of harmful particles, including:

Microorganisms like bacteria, viruses, and parasites

Radioactive elements like uranium or radium


Radon, a gas produced by decaying uranium


Nitrates and nitrites from fertilizer or natural sources


Heavy metals, including lead


Excessive fluoride


Animal waste


Industrial wastes


Household contaminants


It's important to make sure private well water is safe to drink; if you're considering a home with well water, you should find out whether testing has been performed.


Lead and Water Supplies

While lead in the soil has been known to contaminate well water, it's more commonly present because of lead pipes in the home's plumbing supply. Lead may also be present in some well water pumps, and in the past, lead wool or lead shot was sometimes added to wells to keep out sand. Steps have been taken to reduce lead exposure in U.S. residences since the mid-1900s, but older systems still warrant examination. The EPA's Safe Drinking Water Act has made lead components illegal in drinking supply systems installed since 1988.


Lead is particularly dangerous to children, but water filters are available to remove nearly all of the lead in your drinking water. The New York State Department of Health advises running the tap until cold water emerges for drinking, cooking, or mixing formula and never using hot tap water to cook.


Water Supply Testing

When considering the purchase of a home with a private well, asking the seller about the quality of the water may not be enough. Sellers may be unaware of any problem with the home's water and may not have had the water tested for invisible, tasteless contaminants. Some well water has an "off" taste that's attributable to perfectly healthy, natural minerals, while other well water can taste great but contain enough bacteria to make you sick. The only way to determine if water is safe is to get it tested.


The EPA publishes a brochure describing when a homeowner should get drinking water tested and how to find a certified laboratory.
For homes connected to municipal water supplies, buyers can contact municipalities and ask for water quality reports. Water suppliers must provide residents with an annual water quality report and are required by law to update customers when water quality changes. According to the EPA's Public Notification Fact Sheet, residents must be notified within 24 hours when the water has an issue that is an immediate threat to health.


Water Rationing and Storage

Changes in the seasons can affect well water supplies as groundwater levels rise and fall. If your home is in a region where this is a common occurrence, well water may need to be rationed at certain times of the year or supplemented with water stored in tanks or cisterns. Cleaning, disinfecting, and strategically locating tanks and cisterns so that they will not collect groundwater and runoff are all important parts of a water storage system. The University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service points out that when rainwater is collected for human consumption, it should come from a system that includes a washed roof, leaf guards, an optional (but helpful) sand filter, and a routinely sanitized cistern. Water that has been stored without treatment isnot safe for drinking, cooking, or brushing teeth.


Municipal water supplies can be affected by seasonal drought, which may result in periods of water rationing. Water rationing can have an effect on garden landscaping; if your new home is in a drought-prone area, you may want to consider xeriscaping, a form of landscaping that uses drought-resistant plants.


Flooding and its Effect on Well Water Quality

In addition to dealing with water shortages, homeowners can have supply issues when water is too abundant. In regions that flood, rising water can wash agricultural, household, and industrial contaminants into the water supply.


The EPA advises getting professional assistance to inspect your well after a flood, noting that "wells that are more than 10 years old or less than 50 feet deep are likely to be contaminated even if there is no apparent damage." In addition to inspecting the pump, cap, and hardware for signs of debris and damage, homeowners should have an electrician check the pump's control box and wiring system after a flood.


The EPA process for emergency disinfection of flooded wells ends with a very important final recommendation: Get your water sampled and tested! Without testing, it is impossible to guess what bacteria or contaminants might have gotten into your well. Frequent retesting is advised when there's been a significant rise in floodwaters.


When it comes to protecting your family, the quality of water from a private well matters just as much as the quality of water from a municipal supply. In the case of a house supplied by well water, you have more personal responsibility for testing. With a simple test, you can learn whether the water you'll be drinking is pure, clean, and safe.

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Call These 4 Professionals to Improve Your Move

By Elena Meadowcroft


Feeling overwhelmed just thinking about selling one home and moving to another? You are not alone! According to the most recent Census survey, 12 percent of the U.S. population changed residences between 2011 and 2012. In addition to hiring the right real estate agent, you can benefit from the help of some other pros who can save you time and make the move easier.

A Professional Organizer

Hire these professionals to make your move less stressfulIt’s difficult both physically and emotionally to sort through years of accumulated memories (and junk). A professional organizer can speed up the process, nudging you to take a more objective approach as you’re weeding out and paring down your belongings.

You can find professional organizers through organizations such as the National Association of Professional Organizers (NAPO), by asking friends for recommendations or by searching through websites like Angie’s List.

NAPO recommends that you interview at least two or three candidates to get a feel for the way they work, their fee structure and what you get for that cost. Try to find a professional organizer who specializes in preparing people for a move. Ask candidates for references to narrow down your choices.

You may even want to consider hiring an organizer to assist in planning storage and space use in your new home, especially if you are downsizing. Wouldn’t it be great to know that when the boxes are unpacked everything has its own space?

An Appraiser

As you’re sorting through your possessions, you may wonder if the ugly antique vase that you inherited from Great-Aunt Bertha is really worth the $5,000 she always said it was. So, before you donate it to Goodwill or put it up on Craigslist (let’s face it – you never liked it anyway), an appraiser can help you determine the vase’s exact value.

The Appraisers Association of America and the American Society of Appraisers both have online tools you can use to search for a qualified appraiser in your area. Appraisers may charge a flat fee to evaluate an item or charge by the hour for their services (if you have several items that you are looking to get appraised).

Another alternative is to use an online appraisal service. You can upload a photo and a description of your item and for a set fee get an estimate of its value. You can also consult price guides for antiques or collectibles, which are often available in your local library.

A Handyman

Make your move easier by using a handyman to make repairs for youMaybe you’ve been able to live for years with the half-finished drywall in the basement – a DIY man cave project with great potential that got frozen due to the lack of time, funds or motivation. Maybe you’re not bothered by the misaligned kitchen cabinet door, the toilet that runs, the doorknob that falls off, or the electrical outlets that won’t accept three-prong plugs. But when you’re getting ready to put your house on the market, even little problems can be a turnoff to potential buyers. It’s better to spend a little money upfront to get these small repairs completed so that your home makes a good first impression.

A handyman or contractor who can tackle many different jobs is a good resource to have if you are not particularly handy. Ask your friends and neighbors for their recommendations. Or ask real estate agents – you’ll probably be interviewing several anyway. And if all else fails, there’s always Angie’s List and other consumer review sites to help you find a reliable handyman.

A Moving Company

Of course, one of the most important professionals you’ll be hiring is your moving company, since it will be handling your treasured furniture and possessions.

Take the time to meet with moving company candidates and have them walk through your home before providing you with a written cost estimate for your move. Don’t choose a mover based on the price alone; check out their references from other customers thoroughly, and check with the Better Business Bureau before you make your final decision. Working with a reputable moving company is one of the best ways to ensure that your move is as trouble-free as possible.

Monday, November 4, 2013

Protecting Your Home: Security Alarm Systems

by Karie Fay

Types of Home Security Alarm Systems

 

A quick glance at any retailer’s selection is likely to show you an overwhelming array of various home security alarm systems, each with different bells and whistles. While all perform one basic function – letting you and the authorities know that your safety may be in danger – different security systems vary based on how their parts communicate with each other and with the centralized monitoring service.

Homeowners have a few options when it comes to home security alarm systems

1. Hardwired Home Security Alarm Systems - Considered the granddaddy of home security systems, hardwired systems are nonetheless a viable option for homeowners in some situations. Hardwired systems use wiring inside your home to communicate between the system parts, and your landline (telephone line) to communicate with the monitoring service. Although fairly inexpensive to purchase, hardwired systems have some drawbacks.

First, they are more vulnerable to sabotage than a wireless system. A competent intruder need only cut your phone line to prevent the system from signaling for help. Then there’s the power supply. If it’s wired into your home’s electrical system or plugged into an outlet, when your power goes out, so does your security system. If your alarm has a battery backup – or runs off batteries – keep fresh batteries in it all the time and change them regularly.

Installation is another drawback. Notoriously difficult to wire and install, it’s easiest to let the pros do it for you. Even then, it’s much simpler to install during the home building or a remodel due to the wiring. Also, you can’t take it with you as easily if you move. Keep these things in mind before selecting this type of system.

2. Internet-Based Home Security Alarm Systems – Whether the components are hardwired, wireless, or a hybrid, the big difference with an Internet-based home security system is the method of signal transmission. The control panel sends the alarm to the monitoring service via your Internet connection (DSL, broadband or cable). Many owners like that you can hook it up to the Internet fairly easily, especially if it’s wireless (using a wireless modem or router instead). Others relax in the thought that it’s safer than a landline-based system. It’s not.

The biggest drawback is still vulnerability. Just as a phone line can be cut, so can an Internet cable. Additionally, if your Internet goes out for any reason, so does your monitoring service. In locations where damage to the cable is less likely, such as townhouses and apartments, an Internet system may be a good option, however. For many, it’s also convenient to run their alarm, cable and Internet together.

3. Cellular Home Security Alarm Systems – A relative newcomer to the field, cellular home security alarm systems overcome landline-based alarm system’s vulnerabilities easily. The control panel sends the alarm signal to the monitoring service through cellular phone towers. It doesn’t interfere with your regular cell phone usage. The phone line can’t be cut (providing you pay your bill). It’s also not as difficult to set up as a hardwired system.

But nothing’s perfect. First of all, cellular systems can be expensive. And it’s not just the cost of the system – you may need to get a SIM card and phone number, which allows you to route the signal to a clearing house, which then forwards it to the monitoring agency. It can be an added expense each month on top of your system and monitoring.

Cellular signals also aren’t always reliable. If you’re in a dead zone or if something interferes with the cellular transmission, your help call won’t transmit. Investigate these aspects before deciding a cellular home security alarm system is right for you.

4. Wireless Home Security Alarm Systems – Sometimes referred to as “all-in-one systems,” wireless systems usually run off your landline, just like a hardwired alarm system (and occasionally a cellular network). Unlike hardwired systems, however, all the components – the sensors, door contacts and such – are wireless. This makes installation very simple: Plug the system into the phone line (or as instructed in the cellular system directions), attach the components as recommended by the manufacturer, and the system is up and working. About all you need is a screwdriver, unless you choose to drill a hole to run any wires.

Besides ease of installation, wireless systems are easy to move – if you relocate, simply unplug it and take it with you. Wireless systems also tend to cost less than other types. You save on the equipment and the installation. And it only takes 20 minutes to an hour to get it up and going.


Planning a Wireless Home Security Alarm System

Careful planning makes any job more successful. Before spending money on any home security alarm system, do the footwork and put a little thought into your circumstances. Other than what type of system you want, and what options you’d like, consider the number of signal transmitters necessary.

Door and window transmitters are the eyes and ears of your home security. They detect an intruder and send the information to the control panel, which notifies the authorities. Don’t let anyone convince you to replace transmitters with electronic eyes and motion detectors. They aren’t as reliable and may produce false alarms or fail to alert more often than transmitters. Glass breakage sensors can be included to create a better design. Just keep in mind that glass isn’t broken in every invasion, so door and window transmitters are the backbone of your system.

To plan the number of sensors you need, walk around each room in the house and take note of each opening – door or window – that is vulnerable. Skip upstairs windows and doors if they are not accessible from the ground. Next, add additional sensors – such as fire and heat detectors – if you wish to incorporate them into your wireless alarm system.

The control panel is another consideration. Choose between the “cabinet style” – consisting of a keyboard near your entry door and a separate circuit board near the phone jack or modem – and a “self contained” control panel, a single piece mounted near the door. The biggest difference between the two is ease of use and vulnerability. When you use the cabinet style control board, you must disable both parts to stop the alarm signal, which makes it harder for an intruder. On the other hand, you have to interact with both in order to use it. For many, the hassle is worth the safety.

Once you have an idea of what you want, as well as what you need, it’s time to shop for your particular system. Take your time, ask lots of questions, and read carefully. In general, it’s also a good idea to pay a little more for a well-known name brand rather than the no-name “bargain.”

DIY Home Security Tips

Some cities and local governments require alarm system permits. Before hooking up your new system, contact your local government offices to inquire about the specifics. If you don’t, you could find yourself facing a stiff fine and a hassle with the authorities.

Just as you shopped around for your system, be prepared to do the same with your monitoring service. Of course, you don’t have to use a monitoring service – you can use an alarm siren just for a deterrent – but it’s nowhere near as reliable as a signal sent to the police or a monitoring service.

Most services are fairly reasonable – less than the typical cell phone bill – but you may be locked into a contract. Make sure to read all the fine print before selecting your provider. Always ask questions about anything that concerns you and make sure you know all the involved costs, particularly if extra equipment is needed (such as with cellular systems).

Don’t forget to stick an alarm sticker in a visible window after your installation is complete. Also, contact your home insurance carrier. You may find you qualify for a discount due to your newer, safer home.

Consider using your new system for a couple weeks before connecting to a monitoring system. This allows you to “train” yourself and your family to use the system without sending false alarm calls. Also, during planning and installation, try an old trick: Think like a thief. Where would you enter the home if you were bent on getting in? What would you do? This helps you spot your home’s weak spots.

Don’t rely on your home security alarm alone – make it part of a “whole house approach” to safety. Implement other safety strategies and aim to make your house invasion-proof.

Friday, November 1, 2013

Eagle River "Trunk or Treat" 10/31/13

Many thanks to all our friends and families who joined and made this event memorable and extra special. You rock! Let's do this again.

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Interior Design: The Craftsman-Style Home

by Alane Jewel

 

There’s so much to love about the Craftsman-style home. The handcrafted stone and woodwork perfectly combined with other natural elements. The large front porches supported with beautiful columns and covered by low-pitched, often gabled roofs and impressive overhanging eves. The attention to detail combined with the feeling of a quintessential, cozy bungalow. The unique beauty of these homes is carried throughout the interior as well, proudly displaying the workmanship involved.
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Craftsman Dining Room by Silver Spring Architects & Designers Gardner Mohr Architects LLC

Traditional Architectural Features & Color Palettes

The colors seen in Craftsman-style homes tend to complement the natural surroundings of their locale. Warm, earthy tones are quite popular for base colors, especially shades of beige, brown or green. Accent colors in red, orange and gold are often added to warm up a living space, and cooler colors such as grey or blue may be added to rooms where an abundance of natural light filters through. Colors are carefully chosen to coincide with natural elements while creating balance and harmony in the home.

Natural design elements including stone and wood are proudly exhibited throughout the home as well. Open floor plans effortlessly show off the rich, exposed wood beams, rafters and columns that are reminiscent of the arts and crafts home. Beautifully finished wood floors, trim, molding and wall paneling are typical, as are built-in features such as bookshelves, cabinetry or window seating. In the modern Craftsman home, woodwork may be stained or painted.

Flooring

Natural elements are most prominent when it comes to flooring. Beautifully stained wood floors enhance the craftsmanship of the other wood details in the home. Natural stone can also be an option as well as a variety of tile selections, such as terra cotta. Mosaic tiles are common but seen more in smaller spaces, such as entries or as an accent detail in traditional fireplace design or even countertops and bathrooms.

Windows and Lighting

There is often ample natural light in the traditional Craftsman home due to many large windows. It’s not uncommon to see these windows left undressed. However, simple drapery ensembles such as panels or sheers comprised of natural fibers can be used. Basic valences are also popular and still showcase the craftsmanship of the window design.

Stained glass has been beautifully incorporated into many traditional Craftsman homes in windows as well as wood accent pieces, such as built-in cabinets. When choosing light fixtures, consider stained glass as an option for both table lamps as well as hanging fixtures. They add amazing warmth to a space and are very complementary to the rich wood features prevalent in these homes.

Furnishings and Décor

Remember to consider natural materials when choosing interior décor to coincide with the arts and crafts philosophy. Typical craftsman furniture has defined, straight lines and is often made of wood adorned with natural fibers. Colored glass accents such as end tables are also commonly seen and further enhance the organic character of the home.

As a whole, décor in a Craftsman home should remain simple in order to not detract from the intricate workmanship already incorporated into the home. Standout pieces of pottery or vases make great accents, and large pieces of wall art including mirrors, framed art or canvasses are fantastic in moderation.

As you furnish your Craftsman-style home, remember that you are enhancing a handcrafted work of art to create your own one-of-a-kind, cozy bungalow.

Credit Set to Tighten Mid-November

by Jason Van Steenwyk


Credit for many homebuyers is about to get substantially tighter, come November 16.

No, it has nothing to do with the debt ceiling or the government shutdown or event the Federal Reserve. In this case, it’s a long-scheduled program changeover at Fannie Mae, which is planning to change the code on the “Desktop Underwriter” program. This is the computer software program lenders frequently use in the field to ensure their underwriting is on the same sheet as Fannie Mae’s.

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What’s changing? Well, the minimum down payment for Fannie-compliant loans is going up – by 66 percent! That’s the net effect of the planned increase in minimum down payments, which is scheduled to increase from 3 percent to 5 percent.

 

That means buyers looking to own a $200,000 home are going to have to cough up an extra $4,000 down – the difference between a $6,000 down payment and a $10,000 down payment required at that price.

 

To avoid the increased down payment requirement, get those applications in by November 16! Or be prepared to come up with the upfront cash.

Other projected changes include a change in the maximum life of the loan written in the software. The new software will support a maximum life of loan (LOL!) of 30 years. Previously, the DU software allowed underwriters to plug in loan terms of up to 40 years.

The interest-only option – rarely used in recent years after having left lenders with a bad taste in their mouths thanks to overuse during the boom (read: lousy underwriting.) is also disappearing from the DU interface. Getting a Fannie-backed interest-only loan isn’t even on the radar screen anymore.

Fannie Mae is also tightening up the DTI calculations it applies to applicants for adjustable rate mortgages.

On the other hand, Fannie Mae is also cutting some borrowers some slack come November. Effective as of the November 16 update, Fannie Mae’s DU program will no longer automatically reject borrowers who had sold a previous home via a short sale. This was important because according to data from the National Association of Realtors®, 23 percent of agents reported working with buyers who had experienced a foreclosure or short salesince 2005. Nearly half of these agents – 46 percent – reported that these buyers could not obtain financing – usually (65 percent) as a result of the previous foreclosure or short-sale.

Furthermore, some of the rules regarding reestablishment of credit after a foreclosure or bankruptcy are being relaxed.

The change comes on the heels of tightening of FHA requirements earlier this year. The Federal Housing Administration made mortgage insurance premiums payable for the entire life of the loan, rather than shutting off when home equity reaches 22 percent – a rule that made FHA borrowing much more expensive over the life of the loan. The FHA also raised its fees,which effectively negate much of the benefit of having a low 3.5 percent down payment. The premium for mortgage insurance was also jacked up as well, from 1.25 to 1.35 percent for loans up to $635,000.

In addition, FHA made things more difficult for borrowers with FICO scores below 620.

Put the two together, and between FHA and Fannie Mae, the two giant institutions are working to choke off a substantial amount of demand from the housing market.

For the moment, we can afford it – largely because of the intense interest in residential real estate on the part of institutional investors. But the changes are bound to have an effect. We’re seeing it already in the decline of first-time buyers as a percentage of home purchases. While first-time homebuyers by definition don’t benefit from the loosening of credit for those with a previous foreclosure or short sale, they are most directly affected by the increases in down payment requirements. They are younger, on average, and have had little time to save up big down payments. Their biggest asset is time, along with their future earning potential over their working lives. The increases in down payment requirements hit this group right between the eyes.

In contrast, institutional investors generally pay with cash, or get financing from another source.

Deals are getting tighter, as well, as distressed home sales are declining sharply. As of August 2013, distressed sales, defined as the combined sales of foreclosed and short-sale properties were around 12 percent. That’s way down from early 2011 numbers, which neared 40 percent of all sales. Tightening requirements and jacking up fees now that we have a more healthy housing market is one way we have of replenishing capital reserves at mortgage insurance firms and lenders while cooling off demand a bit. Unfortunately, the cooling off of demand is concentrated in the starter-home market.

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Preventing and Thawing Frozen Water Pipes

by Karie Fay

Water always expands as it freezes. For some homeowners, this spells trouble come winter. Temperatures drop, water pipes get cold enough to freeze, the water inside expands in the process – and a pipe bursts.


Taking steps now – before anything happens – allows you to avoid the hassle and mess frozen pipes create. If, however, you caught the problem too late and your pipes have already frozen, try thawing the pipes as soon as possible. Knowing how to prevent the problem and what to do if the worst happens will arm you with all the information you need to handle the situation properly.


Is Your Home at Risk?
Learning how to prevent frozen water pipes will help homeowners winterize their homes and avoid burst pipesIn colder climates, homebuilders generally enclose water pipes inside the house’s insulation to protect them from extreme cold. Unfortunately, that’s not always enough. If temperatures drop low enough or a problem exists that allows cold air to reach the pipes, it can lead to a burst pipe. Cracks, holes, gaps or inadequate insulation can still lead to frozen pipes.


Homes in southern climates are more vulnerable than their northern neighbors due to the tendency to run pipes outside the building insulation, often in unheated crawlspaces and similar areas. Residents are less likely to be conscious of the problem, and the conditions under which their pipes are likely to freeze only happen a time or two each year, so it has likely never been an issue before … until it happens.

When is it Cold Enough for Pipes to Freeze?

Since plumbing pipes typically run inside the building envelope in colder climates, it usually takes colder outdoor temperatures to freeze. In more moderate regions, the “temperature alert threshold” is 20 degrees Fahrenheit, in contrast to about zero degrees F the cooler regions.


Temperature isn’t the only factor, however. Wind chill – the perceived temperature that results from the combination of temperature and moving air or wind speed – can accelerate freezing water or penetrate deeper into the home than air that is frigid but still. The pipe location also plays a role: A pipe running through the ceiling of an un-insulated basement, for example, would require colder temperatures to freeze completely than a pipe running along an outside wall in the same basement.


Which Pipes are Most Vulnerable to Freezing?

While any pipe or plumbing accessory can freeze, some are more likely to experience problems than others. Pay particular attention to these pipes and locations while performing preventative measures to protect them.


  • Outdoor hose bibs
    – In the fall while temperatures are still mild, detach any water hoses or accessories. Drain water from the hose, coil and store in a safe place. Next, turn off the water supply to the hose bib if possible. Many homes have a shut-off valve that controls only the outside faucet. Look in the basement or wherever the water first enters the home, from which point it routes throughout the house in various pipes. Turn on the bib outside and allow any remaining water to drain out.

    If you’re able to stop the water to the outdoor faucet, allow the bib to remain open until warmer temperatures in spring. This ensures that any water present in the pipe won’t expand and break it. If you’re unable to turn the water supply off, fit the bib with an insulated cover.

  • Swimming Pool and Water Sprinkler Lines
    – Before cold weather hits late in the fall, drain the water from your supply lines leading to the pool, sprinkler system or other item. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for best results. Do not flush or fill the lines with automotive antifreeze.

  • Crawlspaces, Attics and Other Unheated Areas
    – Even if the pipes are in an insulated area, if there’s no heat, they could get cold enough to freeze and burst. Insulate pipes running through un-insulated or unheated areas, both hot and cold water pipes. (Hot water pipes can also freeze if they stand long enough in cold enough weather.) Make a habit of looking over your pipes every autumn to ensure the insulation in good shape.

  • Pipes Running Along Exterior Walls
    – Any air penetration in a wall, or a poorly insulated wall, leaves your plumbing lines vulnerable to freezing temperatures. Not only is this a hazard during winter weather, it also means higher heating and cooling bills due to air leaks and lack of insulation. So while insulating pipes in these areas makes good sense to prevent them from freezing, the wise choice is to seal and insulate the walls whenever possible. Expanding foam insulation is an excellent choice for sealing larger gaps or filling in around door and window framing. Other winterizing and weatherproofing measures will ensure you save energy while also protecting your water pipes.


When Frigid Temperatures Strike

Even in the coldest, most miserable weather, you can further protect your plumbing by taking a few additional steps. Even if you’re not home at the time, you can still protect your pipes.


  • Turn on your faucets.
    Probably the single most important preventative action during a subfreezing spell is to turn on a faucet – or one faucet per water line. It doesn’t have to be much: Even a slow trickle of water ensures the water remains flowing, and flowing water freezes with more difficulty.

  • Open Doors.
    Underneath kitchen and bathroom sinks, inside cabinets, the temperature can be much lower than in the room. Open up the doors to allow air to circulate. This also applies to bathroom doors or any room in which you have a faucet or water-filled appliance. Keep the doors open to help battle frozen plumbing lines.

  • Close up the garage.
    If you have water lines running through your garage, keeping the garage doors shut helps keep the temperature and wind chill higher.

  • Raise your thermostat.
    Keep your thermostat setting a little higher when the temperatures drop below freezing. If you normally lower the temperature at night, leave it at the daytime setting. If you have a high-efficiency home that’s super-insulated, this may not be necessary.

  • Prepare for an absence.
    If you will be away from home for an extended period of time, plan for your pipes. First, keep your thermostat set at a minimum of 55 degrees F. This will prevent the inside temperature from plummeting into the danger zone.

  • Ask someone you trust to visit daily.
    Have them flush the toilet, run a couple of faucets, and look around to ensure your pipes are fine.

  • Consider draining your water system.
    If you can’t have someone come by your house, this is another option. Shut off the water supply and drain the lines and fixtures. An empty pipe will not burst.


How Do I Turn Off My Water Supply?

Typically, residential water has two main water shut-off valves: The first, called a corporation stop, is underneath the street. You will find the second near the water meter. Depending on your location, this may be on the side of your home, buried in the ground near the street, in your basement, or another location readily accessible to you. You probably have other shut-offs on the lines leading to the fixture.


When Pipes Freeze

What you need to do to treat a frozen pipe varies depending on whether it’s simply frozen – a pain, but not a tragedy – or whether it burst and possibly caused water damage in your home. The sooner you recognize the problem and take action the better. A pipe with a 1/8-inch crack will spray up to 250 gallons in 24 hours, reports Goodfellow Air Force Base. At that point you don’t simply need a plumber to replace the plumbing, you also have a flood on your hands. Floors, walls, furniture, personal items – all can be destroyed in the process. Then there’s the mold that can quickly start to grow. While burst pipes make the problem obvious, if you’re lucky, you’ll find out before an eruption. You’ll turn on a faucet and nothing will flow. That’s when you’ll know a pipe’s frozen.


  • Turn off the water.
    If you can’t access your home’s water shut-off valve, call the local water company and ask for emergency service.

  • Open your faucets.
    Not only does this help relieve pressure in conjunction with shutting off the water source, it also gives soon-to-be-melted water a place to go. It also encourages the ice to melt.

  • Turn off your water heater.
    Allowing an empty water heater to run is damaging, and your water supply may be off for quite some time.

  • Start thawing your pipes.
    You have several options when it comes to thawing your plumbing lines. The only option you don’t have is to wait, doing nothing. Time is of the essence – the longer the ice sits undisturbed, the more likely the pipe will break, if it hasn’t already. Even if you’re dealing with a flood inside your home, you can work to melt the ice at the same time.


How to Thaw Frozen Water Pipes

Choose the methods that work best for you. If you try your faucet and it still appears clogged with ice, be patient. De-icing your water lines may take longer than you expect. Most important, never hurry the process by using unsafe methods. Open flames and extremely high temperatures such as blowtorches, charcoal stoves and kerosene or propane heaters are dangerous. Using them on frozen pipes may result in melting plastic pipes, boiling the water inside and causing an explosion, igniting fumes or worse. Also, to prevent shock, never stand in water while handling any electrical item.


  • Turn up the temperature.
    Raise the temperature inside your home. Open doors and use fans as necessary to direct warm air into the room or area containing the frozen pipe.

  • Use a space heater.
    Be especially cautious if using a space heater inside the home. Keep the heater at least 3 feet away from the pipe and any surrounding materials. Observe during use.

  • Wrap the frozen pipe with a heating pad.
    Use an electric model or use your imagination. A towel, heated in the microwave and wrapped around the pipe will work, as will towels soaked in hot water (just make sure you don’t allow it to freeze to the pipe).

  • Turn on the hair dryer.
    Directing the heat at the pipe from a distance of about 6 to 8 inches away. Give the hair dryer breaks to prevent overheating.

  • Use electric pipe heating tape.
    Available at home improvement stores, it will thaw the ice safely.

  • Call a plumber.
    Licensed plumbers have a special tool that melts the ice via an electrical charge.


Help! My Drain is Frozen!

If you’re dealing with a frozen drainpipe, try the same methods as those mentioned above. Alternatively, try pouring very hot water down the drainpipe. Do it slowly to prevent an overflow. A snake may knock the ice free in some instances. Goodfellow Air Force Base advises you can even attach a section of rubber tubing to a kettle’s spout, insert the other end into the drain, and allow water to boil, creating steam. The steam will gradually melt the ice. At least, that’s how the GIs do it!

Monday, October 28, 2013

Retirement Planning: Will Owning A Home Help You Retire?

CaptureThere was a time when nobody had doubts about the value of owning a home. It was considered an incredible long-term investment and ideal for retirement. Today we know that real estate isn’t as safe as we once thought it was, at least as a short-term investment, and Americans, young and old, are leery of sinking their life savings into a home as an investment. Knowing this, will owning a home help you retire? That depends on a number of factors, including when you purchase the home.

If you buy the home in advance of retirement, when you have the time to build equity, then yes, the home may help you retire. If you are thinking of buying your first home in retirement, there could be problems.

Timing

Ideally, a home purchased to help you financially during retirement is one that will be paid off by the time you bring in the shingle. Unfortunately, that doesn’t happen for many homeowners. Forbes.com claims that although almost half of Americans aged 50 to 70 say they plan on using their home’s equity to fund their retirement, 37 percent of them are not anywhere near having their mortgages paid off.

That’s OK, though, according to Sydney Lagier, former certified public accountant. “With interest rates so low right now,” she says, “a mortgage can be an excellent hedge against inflation.”

Lagier claims that inflation is expected to soar in the near future, eroding the worth of today’s dollar. While this hurts those with savings and investments, it does the opposite with debt.

“A mortgage enables you to lock in today’s home price, but pay for it with tomorrow’s inflated dollars,” Lagier claims.

If inflation is a concern, Lagier suggests taking the money that you would have used to pay off the mortgage prior to retirement and investing it in Treasury Inflation-Protected Securities.

Reverse Mortgage

If you have paid off the mortgage, or at least a significant chunk of it, pre-retirement, there’s always the reverse mortgage to fall back on should you need to tap your equity. Of course, you won’t realize as much as you would were you to sell the home, but it’s “money you get to use while you are alive and pay back when you’re dead,” according to Lagier.

Offered to Americans 62 years of age or older, the reverse mortgage doesn’t come without risks. Although you won’t be making house payments, you’ll still be required to keep up the property tax payments, HOA fees, and homeowners insurance. Default on any of those and you risk foreclosure. Which is why, according to Lagier, the reverse mortgage is considered a “loan of last resort.”

Income Property

Many experts claim that the purchase of income property is a far better retirement investment than depending on being able to tap into your primary home’s equity. This investment property could even be your retirement home, rented out until you stop working.

The best time to buy this home is at least five to 10 years before you retire, according to Michele Lerner in an Associated Press article. She also cautions about the risks you take in losing liquidity when you tie up your money in a second home.

The ideal candidate for this scenario is one who has built up an emergency cushion of at least one year’s worth of expenses – both current expenses and those they’ll take on with a second property.

Don’t disregard other risks, such as the maintenance costs for two homes. Appliance and major system failures can be costly to remedy, and if you lack liquidity, they could be catastrophic.

Rent or Buy?

Whether to purchase or rent a home is a common question when folks near retirement. Since rents are rising 5 to 6 percent a year on average, and interest rates are still incredibly low, it appears on the surface that buying is a better option. Dig a little deeper, and it is even more apparent.

With a fixed-rate mortgage your monthly house payment won’t change over the life of the loan. Rent? At least once a year or whenever the lease is up for renewal, you’ll face a possible rent hike.

Whether or not owning a home will help you retire depends on variables such as your current financial situation, your investment portfolio, and how many years you plan on working. A good financial planner is your best source of information.

Thursday, October 24, 2013

Inviting everyone to our open house Tomorrow, 10/25/13 on this beautiful Home in Anchorage, AK

Come see all its amazing features Today, October 25, at 4pm-6pm. This event will be hosted by Miki Davis and you may reach her at

907-229-9103. Please bring your friends and buyers. Appetizers will be served.

 

E 24th Flyeropenhouse

E 24th Flyeropenhouse2

We also have vacant lots available:

 

 

Brought to you by:

Les Bailey & Associates Real Estate Team

Keller Williams Alaska Group

Direct: 907-694-1234

Toll Free: 1-800-784-2912

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

DIY Toolkit: Essential Tools For Minor House Repairs

DIY Toolkit: Essential Tools For Minor House Repairs

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It takes time to build a complete DIY toolkit. Start with the essentials, and build on your collection as you take on new projects. Eventually, you will become proficient at a wide range of DIY home projects – and your toolkit will reflect this (as will your wallet, considering the money you will save on hiring someone to do it for you!).

 

A Basic DIY Tool Collection

  • Hammer: From hanging a picture to replacing wall molding and millions of DIY projects in between, a hammer is probably the most-used tool there is. Don’t choose just any hammer. Select a claw hammer – a hammer with a claw on one end for pulling nails and prying material – with a flat peen (the surface which drives nails) rather than rounded.

  • Tape Measure
    : Many home repair and improvement tasks require a tape measure. Get a retractable tape measure, which is made of a rigid metal and snaps back into the case when you push a button. For most jobs, a 25-foot tape measure is sufficient.

  • Carpenter’s Level
    : With a good level you have a straightedge for cut lines and a tool to tell you if an item is flush (straight up and down) or level (perfectly flat). Don’t let the store’s selection overwhelm you – a basic 4-foot bubble level, which uses air bubbles inside a liquid-filled cavity, is basic but dependable.
  • Carpenter’s Square: Get both a speed square, which is hand-held, and a larger framing square when possible. Squares are great straightedges, tape measures and right-angle testers.
  • Utility Knife: Whether you call it a box cutter, razor knife, or any of several common terms, a utility knife is a DIY tool essential. Your utility knife makes quick work of slicing through drywall, carpet, linoleum, rigid foam insulation and many other materials. Keep a supply of razor blades in the knife’s hollow body.
  • Flashlight: From peering underneath your foundation to working in the dark to restore power to your breaker box, your flashlight will shed some light on various tasks.
  • Screwdrivers: If you plan to limit your DIY ventures to basic carpentry and fixture installation, a handful of screwdrivers will get you started. Choose both Phillips-head screwdrivers (which have a cross-shaped tip) and flat-head screwdrivers (with a knife-shaped tip). More advanced repairs may require different heads. To save money, consider a multi-bit screwdriver with interchangeable tips.
  • Pliers: If you need to pull staples, cut wire, or loosen tight connections, pliers will help. Look for three basic types: needle-nose pliers (which have a pointed end), side-cutting pliers (which look much like scissors) and adjustable flat-nose pliers (aka flat-head pliers).
  • Wrenches: When pliers won’t get the job done, look for your wrench. Grip or remove pipes, nuts, bolts and other stubborn household items. Start with a set of adjustable crescent wrenches for all-around usefulness.
  • Staple Gun: A staple gun comes in handy for installing faced fiberglass batt insulation, hanging plastic sheeting and other projects around the home. Manual staple guns require a little more muscle but eliminate the need for electricity.
  • Drill: Once you have a drill, you’ll wonder how you ever got along without one. From simple tasks such as hanging curtains to more complex jobs like replacing wood flooring, a drill – cordless or not – makes it easier. A cordless drill is more convenient but has a limited battery life.
  • Saws: Two basic saws will see you through most general DIY home projects. First, select a handsaw for places where you don’t have power or for situations where a power saw just isn’t practical. Next, decide on either a table saw or a circular saw. A table saw is sturdy and makes cutting boards and other material easy. However, a circular saw is portable and hand-held, making it more convenient. When you’re ready for a new saw, consider a jigsaw or reciprocating saw.
  • Stud Finder: A stud finder will help you quickly find the framing members in your walls, ceiling and floor.

  • Orbital Sander
    : Small enough to easily control with one hand, an orbital sander is perfect for basic work. Keep a supply of sandpaper, of various grits, on hand.

  • Ladder
    : Depending on the jobs you anticipate tackling, you might prefer a stepladder instead of an extension ladder. Extension ladders are useful outdoors and reach higher, but stepladders work inside or outside.


All of the tools in the world won’t help you if you don’t have accompanying supplies. Keep wood glue, superglue and caulk in your supplies. Add an assortment of nails, screws, bolts and nuts to your tool collection as well. Don’t forget tape: masking tape, electrical tape and duct tape in particular. A heavy-duty extension cord is essential. Your collection will continue to grow over the course of your DIY adventures.

Monday, October 21, 2013

DIY Flooring Installation

in Home Improvement

Installing a new floor is a great way to liven up your house. Before you change your floor, however, you need to decide what type of flooring is best suited to your budget and lifestyle. Hardwood floors are a classic choice, while many homeowners prefer the ease of tile or the affordability of laminate flooring. While some floors can be installed by an inexperienced homeowner, other floor types require the services of a professional or an experienced handyman.

Hardwood Flooring

Hardwood floors have always been a popular choice. Beautiful, traditional wood floors can last a lifetime if properly maintained and, because hardwood floors are more hygienic than carpet, they are a good choice for people with allergies. The National Wood Flooring Association, points out that wood is:

  • Low-maintenance
  • Renewable
  • Recyclable
  • Varied
  • Enduring


Hardwood floor types can be new or salvaged and might be smooth, distressed, or hand-scraped for an antique look. Stains give you a variety of color choices, even allowing oak to masquerade as rare exotic lumber. Research all your options before investing in a hardwood floor, as each of the many choices offers advantages of its own.

Maintaining Hardwood Floors

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Prefinished hardwood flooring can be expensive, but it is easy to maintain. To keep your hardwood floor looking its best, you should put down area rugs in places that get a lot of foot traffic. You should also damp mop your floor frequently to remove dust and dirt. If your hardwood floors get a few minor scratches, you can repair them with a touch-up stick. Solid hardwood floors can be refinished if they have a lot of scuffmarks, which is one advantage over other products like laminate flooring.

Installing Hardwood Flooring

If you have never installed any type of flooring, you might want to hire a professional to lay your hardwood floors. Get an estimate, ask for references and never pay for the entire job upfront. If you do decide to do it yourself, do your homework because installing flooring can be tricky. The following tools are needed for installing hardwood floors:

  • Circular saw
  • Measuring tape
  • Nail gun or hammer
  • Table saw
  • T-square
  • Floor sealant
  • Nails
  • Safety glasses


According to Steve Seabaugh, director of technical education for the NWFA, installers of wood floors must take care to:

  • Check the subfloor for flatness.

  • Avoid laying over particleboard, which does not hold nails well.
  • Acclimatize wood to the space in which it will be installed.

Laying hardwood floors takes time, and this last step adds several days to your project calendar. The flooring should sit in your home for at least 48 hours before installation in order to expose it to the room’s environment. This allows it to expand or contract according to the temperature and humidity of the room. If this takes place after the floor is laid, you’ll wind up with shifting boards and uneven flooring. In addition to this brief period of acclimatization, plan to spend at least a few full days installing hardwood floors, depending on the size of your home.


Quick-Growing Alternatives to Hardwoods

Some homeowners choose cork or bamboo floors as an alternative to hardwood. These faster-growing products can be “green” in more ways than one – gentle on the planet and on your wallet. Prefinished bamboo is made from a grass and performs much like hardwood when it’s used as flooring. Cork is a wood-bark product that can also make an attractive floor. According to BuildGreen’s independently published Environmental Building News, the most eco-friendly bamboo floors are those with Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification.


Tile Flooring

Tile is another beautiful choice and a great option for DIY flooring. The price of tile varies greatly because there are so many choices, from ceramics and terra-cotta to marble and slate. Regardless of the price, tile is extremely durable and will last for decades with proper care.

Before installing new floors, you should first learn as much as you can about how to tile. Many hardware stores and home centers offer classes in tiling. You can also hire a professional to install your tile floor, but this will greatly increase the price of your total flooring expenses.


When you do undertake a tiling job, be sure you already understand the process. You’ll need to be sure your subfloor is suitable and then create a level bed of mortar. Tiles will be set according to a careful plan, with room left between for grout. After the mortar has set, you’ll fill the gaps with grout, carefully wiping the surface of the tiles as you go. Finally, a week or more later, you’ll seal the grout to protect it from stains.


Tile-Laying Supplies

The basic supplies for laying tile include:

  • Grout floats
  • Mortar trowels
  • Sponges
  • Tile cutters
  • Tile grout, mortar, and sealant
  • Tile saw
  • Tape measure
  • Pencil
  • Level

  • Rags and a sponge

Installing tile flooring will take time, as grout and mortar take several days to dry. You should expect to get your hands dirty during this process, but the end result will be one of the most easily maintained flooring options out there.


Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring is made from a synthetic material that looks like hardwood or tile. Laminate flooring is a great choice for anyone who wants the look of hardwood or tile but doesn’t have a big budget to work with. Laminate flooring is usually less than half the cost of hardwood floors.


Another advantage of laminate flooring is that almost anyone can install it. For most types of laminate flooring, the manufacturer’s instructions are easy to follow and the pieces snap into place for “lock and click” installation. According to the North American Laminate Flooring Association, glue and fasteners are usually not required. Durability and affordability are listed by NALFA alongside ease of installation as reasons to consider a laminate floor.


Eco-friendly Laminates

Environmental concerns can sway consumers towards laminates, too. A product with NALFA’s green seal will have the following features, according to the association’s website:

  • Natural ingredients such as wood chips
  • Recyclability
  • Low emissions
  • Recycled content
  • No VOC-producing installation adhesives

Easy to Buy, Install and Maintain

Caring for and maintaining laminate floors is very easy – simply sweep or wet-mop regularly. With excellent care, laminate floors can last up to 20 years. The time and skill required to install a laminate floor are relatively low, making this a popular choice for first-time DIY floor installations.


A Floor for Every Lifestyle

Whether you choose easy laminates, classic hardwoods, or beautiful tile, your floor will help define your home’s personality. By matching your budget, taste, and skill to the best product for you, you can find a DIY flooring solution that will make your home more comfortable, beautiful, and valuable.