Trunk or Treat

Les Bailey and Associates would like to invite everyone to join the fun “Trunk or Treat” event happening at the parking lot of

11901 Business Blvd.
Eagle River, AK 99577, 5pm on Halloween. Bring your friends and families for a treat.

Never mow a lawn again with this lovely condo in Anchorage!

Never mow a lawn again with this lovely condo in Anchorage!

6259 E 41ST Court #107
Anchorage, AK 99504
Price: $180,000
Phone#: 907-694-1234

Just Listed



Property Type: Single Family; Condo/Townhouse/Co-Op

• Bedrooms: 3; Total Baths: 2; Garage: 1
• Year Built: 1978; Sq. Feet: 1,666;
  • Heat: Baseboard

Click here for more exciting features: 

Spacious condo with a garage attached located near the heart of Anchorage.

This condo is move in ready and has plenty of space for living and entertaining.

With 3 bedrooms and 2 full bathrooms, there are endless possibilities with this home.

Come in, relax and cozy up to the nice warm fireplace.


We also have vacant lots available.

Brought to you by:

Les Bailey & Associates Real Estate Team

Keller Williams Alaska Group

Direct: 907-694-1234

Toll Free: 1-800-784-2912

www.LesBaileyAndAssociates.com

Housing Market Slowly Recovering, but is Another Bubble Pending?

by Madhusmita Bora

 

Pending Sales on the Wane

Rising mortgages and tightened inventory are pulling the brakes on the recovery momentum in the housing market. Last month, fewer buyers signed agreements to buy existing homes.

The pending home sales index slipped 1.6 percent. That’s after July’s revised 1.4 percent decline. Economists surveyed by Bloomberg had predicted a 1 percent loss in the gauge compared to the prior month.

The housing market has been in active recovery with mortgage rates hovering at the bottom for a while now. But, in August, rates started climbing upward. The average rate for a 30-year fixed mortgage was 4.58 percent in the week ended Aug. 22. That’s the highest level since July 2011. That, coupled with limited inventory, could be making buyers wary about investing in a home right now.

“We didn’t have a particularly good second quarter, we’re not producing big increases in payrolls, so that kind of supports a plateau,” Ken Mayland, president of ClearView Economics LLC, told Bloomberg. “There’s a little bit of indigestion on the part of potential homebuyers because mortgage rates have come up more than a percentage point. However, I think it’s only indigestion. I don’t think it’s anything fatal to the housing industry.”

Steady job gains and growth income are essential to keep the momentum going. According to the National Association of Realtors®, on an unadjusted basis purchases climbed 2.9 percent when compared to the previous year. While pending sales jumped 4 percent in the Northeast, they declined in the other regions of the country.

“Moving forward, we expect lower levels of existing-home sales, but tight inventory in many markets will continue to push up home prices in the months ahead,” NAR’s chief economist Lawrence Yun said in a statement.

Three of four regions showed a decrease from a month earlier, led by a 3.5 percent drop in the South. Pending sales climbed 4 percent in the Northeast.

Housing Market 67 Percent Back on Track

Despite the challenges with mortgage rates and inventory, the housing recovery is two-thirds of the way back to normal, according to Trulia’s Housing Barometer.

The Housing Barometer, since February 2012, has been tracking how quickly the market is moving back to “normal” by examining indicators such as construction starts, existing home sales, and delinquency plus foreclosure rates. For each indicator, Trulia compared the month’s data to the pre-bubble normal levels, and worst time during the bust.

Last month, all three measures showed positive signs, according to Trulia. Construction starts, the slowest recovering measure, are 40 percent back to normal, while existing home sales are 99 percent back to normal, despite foreclosures and short sales making up roughly one-eighth of all existing home sales. The good news is delinquency and foreclosure is 60 percent back to normal, dropping to 8.66 percent in August.

Is Another Bubble Forming in the Housing Market?

The much cited Standard & Poor’s/Case-Shiller home-price composite index of 20 metropolitan areas showed an increase of 0.6 percent in July on a seasonally adjusted basis. That’s lower than the 0.8 percent gain economists polled by Reuters were anticipating. Data from the U.S. Federal Housing Finance Agency showed U.S. home prices rose 1 percent the same month.

As mentioned earlier, rising mortgage rates could be creating roadblocks in price gains.

“Further rate increases are going to have an effect. That’s what’s on people’s minds now, it’s those rate increases,” Yale University economics professor Robert Shiller, who helped create the gauge, said in an interview.

“It may turn the market down,” he added.

Overall, home prices have skyrocketed since last year. Home prices in all 20 cities of the S&P/Case-Shiller data have gained. Las Vegas saw a whopping 27.5 percent increase in prices.

In a separate interview, Shiller said he’s concerned that there is an “irrational exuberance” injecting into the housing prices. With average home prices back to 2004 levels, Shiller fears thatanother bubble is in the making, especially in cities such as San Francisco, Las Vegas and Phoenix.

10 Maintenance Tips to Highlight Your Hardwood Floor’s Natural Beauty

By RealEstate.com Guest Contributor

If you have wood floors in your home, it’s vital that you care for and maintain them – and show them off. Properly maintained floors last longer and are less difficult to restore should damage ever occur. It’s the same principle as garden maintenance: If you regularly water, pull weeds, prune, fertilize, and replant, you’ll save yourself work in the long run.

Wood comes with its own specific user manual. No harsh cleaning products or haphazard efforts will do – wood calls for higher standards. Make it a priority to protect your floor’s natural shine, character, and quality; when it’s time to sell your home, you’ll be glad you did. Homeowners who abuse or neglect their hardwood floors, on the other hand, will live to regret it, especially when they see how highly the majority of homebuyers value real hardwood.

Caring for Hardwood Flooring

As Kadee Macey, the “sander rental goddess” of Pete’s Hardwood Floors, will tell you, there’s something incredibly satisfying about spiffing up hardwood floors. Perhaps it’s the same principle as waxing a new car, or taking a diamond ring to the jeweler on a regular basis so it never loses its sparkle. Whatever motivates you, real, true-blue hardwood flooring is an asset to be downright proud of.

For a homeowner embarking on a “save-the-floor” mission – whether their home’s going on the market or they’ve simply awakened to the importance of hardwood floor care – here are 10 essential tips to follow, today and until the hardwood floors are in someone else’s care.

10 Tips to Prolong and Accentuate the Beauty of Hardwoods

1. Keep liquid at bay. This means no mopping, no matter how tempted you are. To give the room a good clean, there are other methods! If you have a leaky ceiling, flooding issues, or water spills, you want to clean them up as fast as possible to prevent distorting or discoloring the wood. Rugs will trap water longer, so do not leave damp or wet rugs on the floor. The purpose of polyurethane, besides adding shine, is to protect your floor from moisture. If you use this type of floor finish, the surface will be shielded from minimal liquid damage, but don’t risk it by leaving the liquid unattended for too long.
   
   

1. Put floor protectors on all furniture. If any furniture could move and scratch the floor, use a floor protector! Desk chairs with those hard plastic castors are the worst. Also, table legs, sofas, and any item capable of inflicting damage should be shielded. Floor protectors come in adhesive self-stick varieties of felt, or you can use soft polyurethane castors to replace the hard plastic ones. Remember that stiletto heels have the same effect – so remove these before you prance across the floor.
   
   

1. Lay down rugs. This is a nice way to protect the floor and add warmth to a room. Latex or rubber rug pads will keep them from sliding around. It’s especially important to put rugs in areas that receive a lot of foot traffic, especially near entrances.
   
   

1. Move gently and with care. Gouges and scrapes are inevitable, but the deeper they are, the harder they are to sand out later on. If you’re moving furniture or dealing with any heavy items that you could drop, simply show care. Unlike carpeted floors, hardwood floors will take a beating and show it too.
   
   

1. If you must paint the room, protect the floor. Paint is difficult to remove from hardwood floors without a ton of abrasive. Save yourself work later on by completely covering the floor with drop cloths.
   
   

1. Sweep and vacuum in all seasons. It’s simple, but it’s a must – especially in the Midwest in winter. If you have hardwood in high-traffic areas of your house, you may want to consider renting a professional floor scrubber after winter makes a salty wasteland of the wood.
   
   

1. Get rid of the dog. Just kidding. But in all seriousness, monitor their messes. Pet stains do not sand out of hardwood. Keep their nails short, too. Unless you have a pet bear, scratches will be fairly easy to sand out of the floor, but until you have the time and money to invest in sanding, you’ll have to live with the look of the scratches.
   
   

1. Test the floor before you recoat. If you haven’t always been the owner of your floors, you’ll want to test the floor for previous cleaning products that could be detrimental to new finishes or polyurethane layers. This means checking for grease-based products or acrylic waxes. You can test for grease-based products with a few drops of paint thinner, and for acrylic products with a mixture of ammonia and water. Do it in an area that is out of the way, and after a few minutes, wipe up the product with a light-colored towel. If there is a waxy residue, you have a contaminant. If there’s a white residue, you have a floor polish. You’ll want to remove it all from the floor before proceeding to recoat.
   
   

1. Buff and recoat with polyurethane every few years. Also called a “screen and recoat,” this is a faster, less expensive, less intensive process that lightly removes the existing finish and top coat of wood to even out the wood’s tone and surface, then applies a fresh coat of polyurethane. It should be done before you start to wear down any area to bare wood. This should happen every three to five years.

1. Re-sand your floors. Most hardwood floors have enough in them to endure four to five sandings in their lifetime. If yours is damaged or starting to look dull and old, it may be time to sand in order to restore your floor’s original beauty.
   
   

Beauty for a Lifetime

Following the above beauty regimen will save you time, energy, and wasted money trying to fix things you could have prevented in the first place. With regular and intentional care, your hardwood floors will stay in great shape – for you and for the next tenant.

This guest post was written by Brooke McDonald, a professional blogger based in the Twin Cities. She works with and writes for businesses like Pete’s Hardwood Floors. She enjoys sharing helpful home improvement information with motivated homeowners.

5 Things to Consider When Organizing for Children

by Laura Leist

For each client I work with, I attempt to individualize the organizing process. I consider their personality and learning style. Are they more left- or right-brain oriented? Are they left- or right-handed? Do they have physical constraints from medical conditions? Do they enjoy color and whimsy or neutrals and clean lines?

Much thought goes into these aspects with each client. This should also be true when organizing for children. In order to set them up for success in keeping their spaces tidy, it’s important to consider organizing from their perspective. Here are five things to keep in mind when organizing a child’s space.

Teach Routine With Activity Zones

Setting up the room in zones will help the child learn to think through his or her daily routine and categorize things by their functions. Think of the common activities that take place in your child’s room and set up zones accordingly. Some common activities may be sleeping, getting dressed, doing homework, working on hobbies or art, and playing with toys or games. Consider what items are used during an activity and place them in the related zone.

With sleeping, for example, your child may like to have a bedside table, lamp, alarm clock, books and a stuffed animal. For homework, the zone may consist of a work surface, chair, bookshelves, lamp, desk supplies and garbage can. For the dressing zone, don’t forget a hamper for dirty laundry that otherwise may end up on the floor. As a bonus, storing items in zones will help with cleanup since items that are used together are also put away together in the same area of the room.

Look From the Child’s Perspective

To help with this task, think through the types of items that you want the child to be able to access. Will the child need access to all or part of his wardrobe to get dressed independently? In the closet, make sure there is ample storage for these items within easy reach. If not, consider adding shelves, drawers or hanging rods that are at a level that can be easily reached for accessing and putting things away.

Are there a certain toys or books that are used often and should be easily accessible? When choosing storage furniture like dressers and bookshelves, make sure they are the right height for the child and don’t have large, heavy drawers that will make it too difficult to use independently. As adults we often don’t like to store things near the floor as it is uncomfortable to stoop down to access the contents. Children, on the other hand, often do best when they can get up close to items – and for them that is often near the floor! Of course, keeping everything at lower height levels isn’t ideal for maximizing storage space, so do use the upper section of walls for display shelves of collectibles, memorabilia or artwork and the upper section of a closet for seasonal items.

Be Creative

Have fun and be creative with storing children’s items. For infants and younger children who often have lots of very small items to store, I like using an over-the-door shoe organizer. These are great as they provide many little pockets to store small items like hair and clothing accessories, brushes and combs, tiny socks and shoes, washcloths, bibs and toys.

I also like to find furniture that doubles as organizational space. Consider finding a bed with storage drawers underneath, or create your own with under-the-bed storage bins. For older children who can handle sleeping up high, loft beds are a great way to create more floor space for play or a desk for a homework zone under the bed.

©Eliminate Chaos LLC

Another idea is to utilize a bench with space for storage cubes underneath. This provides seating for hosting friends or a spot to put on socks and shoes, and it doubles as toy storage.

Picture via homedecorators.com

Allow Room to Grow

One universal fact about all children is they grow – FAST! Keep on top of this fact in a couple of ways. Keep a bag or bin in the closet that can always be there to collect clothes that are too small or toys that are no longer being used. This way, as soon as an item is deemed too small, it can immediately go into the bin instead of back into the drawer. This is a good organizational habit to allow kids to practice independently as they dress themselves for the day. Also, as items that are too small are removed, routinely keep tabs on what wardrobe items your children need to have replaced. This may seem counterintuitive, but having a complete wardrobe with the right pieces that fit actually helps maintain organization. Your child’s room will be tidier if he can put outfits together without rooting around in the closet or dresser looking for something to wear.

Get the Kids Involved

If the child is old enough, I think one of the most successful things you can do when organizing a kid’s room is get them involved. This may be for the entire process or just part of it, depending on age and personality. When the child has been a part of the picking up, sorting, and decision-making about where items will be stored, it creates a sense of ownership for maintaining the end result. It not only helps them realize how much work goes into getting their room cleaned and organized, it often creates a feeling of pride in the accomplishment of getting their room looking great. Just don’t forget to revisit the room’s organizational systems with your child each fall and spring as you prepare for the new seasons, or more often as necessary.

You can begin teaching organizational skills to your children even from a young age. Make the task fun, age-appropriate and frequent, and you will certainly see organizational know-how grow and blossom as the years go by.

Warmly,

Laura Leist, CPO
Organizing with Laura

Energy Efficiency at Home Part 2: Utility and Appliance Tips

by Karie Fay

In this second installation of our three-part series on energy efficiency tips, we take a look at ways to use and choose your appliances to reduce water and electricity use. As mentioned in our previous article on heating and cooling tips, you will save the most money on utility bills if you take the “whole house approach.” While each tip will save you money individually, the more you implement the more you will save. A house is a system, with each part connected and often dependent on the others. The most efficient water heater, for instance, can’t save as much energy if you waste the hot water that comes from it. Combine that same water heater with other water-saving features and measures, and you will notice the difference in your utility bills.

Efficient Water Use

• Check your water heater setting. For most families, 120 degrees is hot enough for their needs, plus it saves energy and is safer around young children.
  

• Insulate your water heater. Avoid covering the thermostat on an electric water heater with insulation or any other material. Keep the top, bottom and burner area of a gas water heater uncovered as well. Use a blanket material specified as safe for water heaters. Consult the water heater product manual for more information.
  

• Wrap at least the first 6 feet of pipes leading from the water heater – both hot and cold – with insulation. Insulate the entire hot water pipe lengths for greater savings. Pipe insulation comes in blanket-style material that you wrap around the pipe and seal, or tube-style material. Install according to the product instructions.
  

• Service your water heater every six months to a year. Drain a quart or two of water from it. This prevents sediment buildup, which prevents efficient heating and helps wear out your water heater, leading to repair or replacement.
  

• Promptly fix leaks, drips and other plumbing problems. A single dripping faucet can waste a significant amount of water over the course of a day. The Department of Environmental Protection states that a leaky, drip-prone house may waste 10,000 gallons of water a year – enough to fill a large backyard swimming pool. Around 10 percent of homes lose 90 gallons or greater a day. That’s a lot of water – and hidden leaks can quickly lead to mold, mildew and rot if not caught and repaired quickly.

• Use cold water to wash clothes whenever possible. If you must use a warmer setting, use warm water.
  

• Wash only full loads with either your washing machine or dishwasher. It takes as much energy to wash a half-load as it does a full one. It also costs more to run two partial loads than one full one, whether dishes or clothes. Also, use the shortest cycle possible.
  

• Install low-flow, energy-saving showerheads and faucets. Unsure of your flow level? Test it: Place a bucket underneath the showerhead or faucet, if possible. Use a smaller container if a bucket won’t fit and use a shorter time frame. Turn on the cold water full blast and time how long it takes to reach a gallon. If it takes longer than 24 seconds, your showerhead or faucet has an efficient flow rate of 2.5 gallons a minute or less. (If you use a half-gallon as your measure, divide the time in half.)
  

• Take (brief) showers instead of baths. While 2.5 gallons a minute sounds like a lot of water, a bath uses significantly more. With a low-flow showerhead, a 10-minute shower uses about 25 gallons of water versus 30 to 50 gallons or more for a bath.
  

• Consider replacing your water heater if it’s 10 years old or more. Newer water heaters are more energy efficient than older models. Tankless water heaters and those that operate with alternative energy sources, such as solar or heat pump water heaters, may be worth considering. Plus, you may find your water heater qualifies for a rebate or a tax incentive. Do your homework before purchasing to ensure you know what you are getting and that you will be satisfied with your selection.
  

Efficient Electrical Usage

• Switch off lights when you’re not using them. Leaving lights on can add significantly to your bill.
  

• Encourage natural light. Open curtains and blinds to allow daylight as practical. If you’re building or remodeling your home, skylights and solar tubes are great ways to add to your lighting.
  

• Clean light fixtures at least once a year. Seemingly insignificant, dirty lighting can actually reduce its efficiency.
  

• Use compact fluorescent light bulbs. CFLs use less electricity and last longer. Even changing out half your light bulbs will impact your electric bill.

• Avoid using long-life incandescent light bulbs. These are the least efficient incandescent bulbs available.
  

• Install LED (Light Emitting Diode) lighting. LEDs work well for track lighting and under-cabinet and display lighting, among other uses. While LEDs cost more initially, they use significantly less energy and last longer than both traditional incandescent lights and CFL bulbs.
  

• Try motion-activating sensors for outdoor lighting to only light an area when needed.
  

• Purchase dimmer switches for interior lighting where bright lighting isn’t always required.

• 
  Chase away the phantoms and ghosts. Many appliances, when left plugged in, continue to draw a small electrical current, often called ghosts or phantom loads. It’s how your microwave keeps the clock lit, your television can maintain a timing schedule, or a computer maintains lights even when it’s in “standby” and the hard drive isn’t active. An easy solution is to plug such items into power strips and turn the power off on the cord when you’re not using them.
  

• Don’t allow televisions, stereos, video games and computers to run constantly. To calculate the cost of using any electrical item: Multiply the appliance wattage (listed on the information tag, usually on the rear of the item) by the number of hours it is used. Divide the total by 1,000 to obtain the kilowatt-hours that item uses. Now multiply the kWh calculated by the cost, per kWh, your utility company charges (shown on your monthly bill). The answer tells you how much you spend running that item – or the amount you can reduce with energy efficiency measures.
  

Laundry and Kitchen Appliances

• Run full loads, but avoid overfilling the washer or dryer. It will consume more energy and wear out the appliance quicker to overfill it.
  

• Clean the dryer lint filter before each use. At least twice a year, visit the vent outside and ensure it isn’t clogged or malfunctioning. Keeping the dryer, vent and hose free from lint prevents fires and improves efficiency.

• Switch to an outdoor clothesline during pleasant weather.
  

• Replace major household appliances that are 10 to 12 years or older as your budget allows. Today’s appliances use significantly less energy than older ones. Look for ENERGY STAR® appliances when shopping.
  

• Quit peeking into the oven. Every time you open the oven door, the temperature drops25 degrees or more. Worse, that means a longer cooking time, which leads to more energy consumption.
  

• Use the proper stove burner. Placing a small pan on a large burner uses unnecessary energy.
  

• Turn off the burner or oven a few minutes before the food is finished. The retained heat will finish the job but waste less energy.
  

• Lower the burners. Boiling is boiling – once your food reaches boil or the desired temperature, turn it down slightly to maintain the temperature. Many people simply use more energy than needed when cooking.
  

• Perform the “dollar bill test.” Insert a dollar bill between the oven door and oven frame on your stove, or between the refrigerator door and refrigerator frame for the refrigerator. Good seals will hold the dollar bill tight with the door closed. If you can pull the dollar out, the seal needs replacement. Even the slightest gap allows hot or cold air to escape, leading to wasted energy and higher utility bills.
  

• Keep your refrigerator and freezer well stocked. Counterintuitive though it may seem, a full refrigerator or freezer consumes less energy than an empty one. Stack and arrange items to allow adequate air flow.
  

• Maintain the proper refrigerator and freezer temperatures. Fresh food temperatures between 36 and 42 degrees are appropriate, while freezer temperatures should register about 5 degrees below. Place a small thermometer inside the appliance to gauge your settings.
  

• Clean your refrigerator and freezer regularly. Dust off coils and clear around the motor opening. Defrost and clean the interior as well.
  

• Never store a chest freezer outdoors or in an unheated and unconditioned area. When the temperatures drop too low the freezer works harder and less efficiently. The same thing happens when exterior temperatures rise above your home’s temperature. Also, don’t place refrigerators and freezers in strong sunlight or near your oven.
  

• Let your dishwasher do more work. Instead of pre-rinsing dishes, just scrape them off and let the dishwasher get them clean. This uses less energy and less water as well.
  

• Clean and maintain your dishwasher. Filters can clog, degrading the appliance efficiency and leading to extra repairs.

• Air-dry your dishes instead of running the heat cycle.

Affordable and cozy ranch style home in the beautiful Victoria Estates, Wasilla!

A cozy ranch style home in the beautiful Victoria Estates, Wasilla!

 

6860 W Kinsington Avenue

Wasilla, AK 99654

Price: $165,000

Phone#: 907-694-1234

 

 

Just Listed

Property Type: Single Family; Ranch-Traditional

• Bedrooms: 3; Total Baths: 2; W/ RV Parking
• Year Built: 2003; Sq. Feet: 1,108; Lot Size: 0.48
  • Heat: Forced Air
• Click here for more exciting features: 
  
• This cozy ranch style home is located in the beautiful Victoria Estates. Enjoy the open floor plan with the private setting in this amazing home.
  
  Enjoy a home with a true master bedroom/bathroom, two additional spacious bedrooms and the laundry located near by.
• 
• The garage is also a spacious one car garage. This house is ready for you to make it your home.



We also have vacant lots available.




Brought to you by:

Les Bailey & Associates Real Estate Team

Keller Williams Alaska Group

Direct: 907-694-1234

Toll Free: 1-800-784-2912

www.LesBaileyAndAssociates.com

Low Inventory and Rising Mortgage Rates Boost Home Sales

by Madhusmita Bora

Existing Home Sales Hit 6.5-Year High

August was a good month for the housing market. According to the National Association of Realtors®, existing home sales jumped 1.7 percent to an annual rate of 5.48 million units. That’s the highest level since February 2007, and it beat economists’ estimates.

The boom in sales was triggered by buyers rushing in to cash in on low mortgage rates, which slowly seem to be trending upward.

 

Analysts polled by Reuters were expecting sales to rise to 5.25 million units.

The spike may be temporary, according to Lawrence Yun, NAR’s chief economist. Many buyers, who were sitting on the fence, recently made a beeline to the market to take advantage of the low mortgage rates and cheaper prices, which are now threatening to increase. In the future, tight inventory could affect sales, Yun said.

Last month, inventory increased slightly and represented 4.9 months’ worth of supply when adjusted to August’s sales pace, according to NAR. An inventory of 6 months’ supply is considered a healthy balance between supply and demand. Many parts of the country have been experiencing a tight market, thereby hampering sales.

“There’s an ongoing housing shortage,” Yun said, “I don’t anticipate this housing shortage to go away.”

Inventory shortage isn’t the only problem. Mortgage rates, which hit a low of 3.35 percent in May, have begun to rise. The rate on 30-year-fixed loans increased to 4.5 percent the week of Sept. 19, almost nearing a two-year high.

“Rising mortgage interest rates pushed more buyers to close deals, but monthly sales are likely to be uneven in the months ahead from several market frictions,” he said.

Home Starts Rise

Speaking of inventory, there may soon be a solution to that problem. Home starts for single-family units increased in August. Even better news is that permits for future construction also hit a five-year high. This shows that builders have a lot of confidence in the market despite the spike in mortgage rates.

According to the Commerce Department, single-family starts surged 7 percent to an annual rate of 628,000 units last month. That’s the highest level in six months. Single-family homes are the largest segment of the market.

The schizophrenic apartment and condominium segment also continue to struggle. Groundbreaking on multifamily units dropped 11.1 percent, affecting the overall rise in housing starts. But, there’s no cause for too much worry.

“Homebuilding seems to be holding up decently in the higher mortgage rate environment, probably due to the support of strong underlying fundamentals – thin inventories and steady household formation,” Guy Berger, an economist at RBS in Stamford Connecticut, told Reuters.

Homebuilder Confidence Highest in Eight Years

Homebuilder confidence, a key industry measure, remained steady  at the highest level in almost eight years, according to the National Association of Home Builders/Wells Fargo confidence index.

The measure registered 58, matching August’s reading. That’s the highest level since November 2005. A reading of 50 or more is a sign that builders view market conditions as positive.

“Following a solid run up in builder confidence over the past year, we are seeing a pause in the momentum as consumers wait to see where interest rates settle and as the headwinds of tight credit, shrinking supplies of lots for development and increasing labor costs continue,” David Crowe, the association’s chief economist, said in a statement.

Many believe that even though mortgage rates are on the rise, housing recovery will not end. But, faster job growth and wage increases are essential to keep fueling demand for homes.

DIY Laminate Countertops: Installation Basics

by Karie Fay

Why Choose Laminate?

Consider the characteristics laminate countertops offer:

• 
  Lower cost - Granite, quartz, ceramic tile and all-wood countertop surfaces are all more expensive than laminate. This makes laminate the counter of choice when you’re on a budget. And when you decide to upgrade, you can simply lay your new countertop over the laminate.
  
  

• DIY-friendly - Laminating your own countertop surface may prove a little tricky depending on your talent and experience (more on that shortly), but a manufactured laminate countertop is simple to attach to your countertop foundation. With a little care, no one will ever be the wiser that it wasn’t professionally installed. This also saves big bucks on labor and avoids the hassle of workmen tracking in and out of your home.

• 
  Low maintenance - Forget oils and finishes, sealing and scrubbing grout lines or fixing cracks in stone. Simply install the laminate and virtually forget it. It’s easy to clean, hard to stain and it’s waterproof, so you don’t have to worry about water seeping through to the wood and cabinets below it, as long as it’s installed properly.

• 
  Sanitary - Most other counter materials have pores – small openings in the materials where dampness, food, mold and bacteria can hide. Once mold and bacteria gets in there, they thrive and resist eviction. As a plastic product, laminate isn’t nearly as hospitable, with the exception of any seams or joints.
• 
  Versatile yet highly personalized - There are a wide variety of colors, patterns and simulated textures available. You can even simulate stone surfaces for a higher-end look.

• 
  Durable - Perhaps the most important factor to many, other than cost, is the ease with which laminate endures most normal wear and tear. It’s heat resistant and doesn’t shatter or chip like other products. It’s difficult to stain as well – although it can happen if you try hard enough. The worst feature of laminate is only that it’s vulnerable to scratches, so you want to use a butcher board or another cutting surface to avoid marring its appearance.

What is Laminate?

Often referred to as a “plastic,” laminate is actually more paper than anything. It starts with Kraft paper – a heavy, strong paper used in grocery bags, shotgun shells, meat-wrapping paper, and various building applications where it shields surfaces from water, stains and dirt among other things. Saturated with plastic resins and pressed under high heat, the layers are fused together into a solid sheet of laminate. The top layer is colored or patterned to produce a variety of style choices. The surface is, finally, coated with a clear melamine finish.

Laminate comes in different thicknesses as well. Horizontal grade is thickest, designed for flat, heavy-use areas where the material needs to resist impact and damage. Curved areas require a slightly thinner grade to allow pliability. The thinnest grade, called vertical grade, is used for low-impact vertical surfaces such as cupboard doors or walls. It will not stand up to the use most countertops endure.

No matter which laminate product you choose or who installs it, make sure to check the grade first. Equally important, however, is the substrate – MDF, particleboard or even plywood. When purchasing a preformed countertop from a home improvement store, this is less of a concern. Unless specified otherwise with a special order, most manufacturers will use particleboard to make their laminate countertops.

If, however, you create your own countertops, you may prefer plywood. While solid wood is a little more vulnerable to warping, it won’t crumble if it’s ever exposed to water, and exterior-grade or treated plywood is especially useful in water-vulnerable areas like around your sink. Plus, plywood won’t outgasas particleboard is prone to do. Use 3/4-inch thick material – skimping may save you a little money but could cost you in the long run. Ever seen anyone sit on your counters? You don’t want any accidents because your substrate is too thin.

Laminate Lingo

Knowing the terminology you may encounter in your quest for laminate countertops is essential. You want to know exactly what you’re getting without becoming confused by the jargon. Some basic countertop and laminate definitions will help you navigate the process successfully.

• 
  Postformed – Postformed refers to manufactured laminate countertops with the laminate already bonded to the substrate needed. The term postformed arises from the fact that these countertops are one piece, without separate edge pieces and needing neither another substrate before installation nor a separate backsplash – the countertop is already “formed.” Installation of a postformed countertop is generally the simplest of countertop choices.

• 
  Custom built – Sure, postformed laminate countertops are convenient and seamless, but they tend to be more of a one-size-fits-all choice. A custom-built laminate countertop, sometimes referred to as square-edged, may incorporate a variety of choices, from special edge treatments like wood inlay to odd sizes and shapes.

• 
  HPL – Don’t let claims that a product is “high pressure laminate” mislead you. HPL simply means it was laminated with resin-soaked papers under high heat and pressure, as explained earlier. Some manufacturers use the term, some don’t – they are all made the same way.

• 
  Grades – Keep in mind that the thicker the grade, the more durable the surface. Grade refers to the thickness of the laminate, of course, independent of the substrate thickness.

• 
  Solid core – Laminates with solid cores, sometimes referred to as “through color,” have color running through each layer, instead of on the top sheet alone, creating prettier edges and seams on square-edged laminate countertops.

• 
  Counter-Seal – In the past, laminate countertop owners were denied undermount sinks. There simply wasn’t any way to seal the edges of the opening. With Counter-Seal, now you can. Counter-Seal is a trademark product some countertop manufacturers are using to line the opening from which the undermount sink hangs. Of course, it also adds to the cost and is limited to stock colors.

• 
  Texture or finish – Also gone are the days of slick Formica. Today, surface treatments can render the laminate slick, glossy, or textured; add antimicrobial protection; or chemically alter the surface to enhance the wear resistance. Pay close attention to all the benefits and claims of the laminate manufacturer and ask questions about anything you are unsure of.

DIY Laminate Tools and Supplies

Get organized before you begin your laminate countertop installation. The things you need will hinge on which type of laminate installation you undertake. Installing a manufactured laminate countertop requires only attaching it to the cabinet bases, while laminating your substrate necessitates a few extra tools. Following are some of the essential tools and materials typically needed for either installation method.

• 
  Steel tape measure – Don’t even think of starting without it.
• 
  Carpenter’s level – There’s not much you can do to level an attached substrate, but to install a premade countertop or install the substrate yourself, you’ll need a good level.
• 
  Clamps – Helpful to hold countertop pieces securely in place.
• 
  Belt sander – Smooth edges or trim away material to ensure a proper fit.
• 
  Caulk gun and silicone caulk – Use a colored formula if there’s any visibility.
• 
  Rubber mallet – Just in case you need to show the countertop who’s boss. Well, kinda.
• 
  Shims – To level the substrate or a manufactured countertop.
• 
  Contact cement – If you laminate your own countertop, you’ll want decent cement, and lots of it.
• 
  Drawing compass – Helps you scribe (mark) the excess material that sometimes needs removal in order for a preformed countertop to fit properly.
• 
  Router or jigsaw – You’ll need to cut out openings or trim edges.
• 
  Laminate roller – Installing your own laminate requires a roller, although you could use a marble pie roller in a pinch.
• 
  Wood dowels – May help you position laminate over the substrate.

DIY Laminate Installation

The easiest method is to install a prefabricated countertop. Preformed are easiest, but you can also obtain just the countertop (called a blank) or separate counter and backsplash as you wish. If you DIY, the most important thing is to take the time to double-check everything you do – it’s much easier to correct a mistake before you make it. Plan to spend several hours to do it right (professionals are much quicker, of course).

• When you set the countertop in place, adjust and position it properly, then level it from front to back as well as side to side. Shims are indispensable for leveling.

• 
  Once it’s level, check the gap between the countertop and the wall. If you’re lucky, it’s a good fit – lacking significant gaps – and it’s ready to be secured. Or, on a countertop with a separate backsplash, any small gap is easily covered when you set the backsplash on top. A preformed countertop, however, may need fine-tuning. Simply scribe the back of the backsplash, using a compass set to about ¼ inch or as wide as the deepest portion of the gap, and drag the pointer along the wall, allowing the marker to scribe (draw) a line along the top edge of the laminate. A belt sander or file will trim this excess easily, allowing it to fit properly.

•  
  To attach the countertop, reposition it if necessary and check for level again. Sometimes a tap or two with a rubber mallet over a block of wood (you don’t want to damage the counter before you even start!) helps position it if you’re joining seams between pieces. Run caulk across the backsplash or backsplash portion of the countertop to adhere it to the wall. Glue other spots as directed by the manufacturer, then secure with screws driven from the bottom, through the cabinet supports (usually blocking in the corners) into the countertop.

At this point, the countertop is complete. However, if it doesn’t already have cutouts for a sink and faucets, you’ll need to do it yourself. Use either a sink template or the sink itself. Center the sink in the countertop, trace around it, then cut it free with a jigsaw. Hook up the plumbing and your new countertop installation is ready to go!

Installing laminate on your own substrate requires more patience and time. If you choose to go this route, it’s helpful to get a little experience on a scrap piece of wood, a desk, or some other small project where the results are not critical.

• 
  Before you can do anything, you must either install a substrate (as discussed earlier) or sand an existing surface to scuff the finish. This helps the laminate glue adhere.

• 
  Measure the countertop dimensions carefully. Add about an inch to the width and length – this can be trimmed later. Don’t forget to measure the counter edges if you plan to laminate exposed edges.

• 
  A router is useful in cutting the laminate to size. Use a straightedge to ensure precision.

• 
  Spread contact cement across the back of the laminate. Allow it to cure for about 10 minutes or as directed by the manufacturer. Aim for a layer about as thick as butter on bread. Proper gluing is essential to prevent the laminate from “bubbling up” later down the road.

• 
  Position the laminate carefully before you allow it to touch the substrate. Once it comes in contact, it’s going to grip, making repositioning next to impossible. Some installers use wooden dowels, laid across the cabinets, to make positioning easier. The glued laminate is placed on top of the dowels, moved as needed, and then the dowels slide out the front – one at a time – once you’re satisfied with the alignment.

• 
  A roller will force out any air bubbles and ensure good contact. Start from the middle and work outward. Watch for glue squeezing out the edges; if you get it on your roller, it will make a mess.

• 
  The edges can be trimmed precisely with a router, or use a jigsaw as second choice. However, jigsaws leave rougher edges, which should be sanded smooth.

To customize your look, consider special edging. Wood edges, for instance, have a ridge (called a spline) across the back that fits into a groove you router into the substrate edges. With a little glue they look good and fit securely. You can also build a laminate backsplash by cutting strips of substrate to the size of backsplash you want (typically about 4 inches) and laminate similarly. Glue to the wall to complete.

Energy Efficiency at Home: Heating & Cooling Tips to Save Money

by Karie Fay

Considering that the typical American household spends more than $1,500 on electricity alone (with other utilities such as gas and water bringing the total yearly utility cost to over $2,000 a year) any increase in your home’s energy efficiency will save you money. Not only that, but it also makes the world a better place in which to live. Less fuel consumption leads to less pollution, greater protection of resources, and even more comfortable living.

Best of all, many energy saving measures take but a few minutes and cost little or nothing to perform.

The Whole House Approach

When it comes to saving energy, every little change you make in your house has an impact. However, you’ll see the greatest difference if you take the “whole house approach.” Think of your home as a small ecosystem. No matter how efficient your heating or cooling system, or how low you set your thermostat in the winter, or how good your insulation, if your ducts leak or you have drafty windows and other air leaks, you’re fighting a losing battle to heat or cool your home efficiently.

That’s just one example. The point is, while every little bit of improvement in your energy efficiency helps, approaching your house as an ecosystem where each part is dependent on the others will bring you best results. According to the Department of Energy, it’s possible to reduce your utility bills by 25 percent with diligent changes to your practices along with other changes.

This article is the first in a three-part series aimed at guiding you through energy-saving, bill-lowering tips that, for the most part, you can DIY. You may be able to implement some of these tips immediately while others can be worked on as your budget or time permits.

Efficient Heating and Cooling

• Change or clean HVAC filters regularly. Fresh filters ensure your HVAC system breathes properly, boosting energy efficiency, and ensure better indoor air quality.

• 
  Block or allow direct sunlight on your windows according to the season. In the winter the sun helps warm your home, but in the summer it makes your home hotter, causing your air conditioner to work harder. Consider trees for shading during the summer or even window film that blocks the solar rays on the hottest sides of your home.

• 
  Use fans in the summer to keep your house comfortable. Moving air feels cooler, allowing you to set your thermostat higher.

• 
  Consider your window curtains, shades or blinds carefully. Insulated drapes help block heat and cold, for instance, while sheers allow air to flow right through. Dark colors absorb heat while light colors don’t. Choose your window coverings with your needs in mind.

• 
  Run humidifiers or dehumidifiers. Raising the humidity in the air during winter makes it seem warmer, and likewise, dehumidifiers help a space feel cooler in the summer. Plus, removing humidity relieves strain on your air conditioner. Note: Check your humidity level before running a humidifier to ensure you aren’t simply creating a steam bath environment that encourages mold, mildew and rot. Also avoid making the environment too dry.

• 
  Open your windows and use the night air to cool your home in the fall or spring. A box fan set in the window will draw in air and help limit your use of the air conditioner.

• 
  Watch your thermostat temperature settings. In the summer, aim for between 74 and 80 degrees for greater energy savings. Under 70 degrees is ideal in winter. Keep the thermostat far from drafts, heat sources or other conditions that alter the proper temperature reading.

• 
  Install a programmable thermostat. The ability to set your air conditioner to a warmer temperature or your heater to a cooler setting when you plan to be away from the home for long periods saves energy and money. Keep in mind that extreme temperature fluctuations may be self-defeating; In other words, it can take more energy to heat the home back to a livable temperature if it gets too cold while you are away. Setting your thermostat just a few degrees lower during your workday will reflect in your energy bill.

• 
  Seal your ductwork. If the ducts leak, you’re spilling air to the outside of your home. Take the time and a few dollars to seal your ducts.

•  
  Use your appliances with weather conditions in mind for better energy savings. Running the washer, dryer, dishwasher and oven during cooler times of day will help keep your house from overheating. In the winter, on the other hand, the stove can help to heat your home.

•  
  Get HVAC “tune-ups.” Just as your car motor needs regular maintenance, having a qualified HVAC professional service your system annually before each heating and cooling season will ensure optimal performance and help prevent costly repair or replacement bills.

• 
  Close the fireplace damper when not in use. Consider replacing it with a more efficient heat source and blocking it off if desired.

• 
  If your air conditioner or furnace has seen better days, replace it with an ENERGY STAR® model. The higher the SEER (seasonal energy efficiency ratio) rating for an air conditioner, the more energy efficient it is. With furnaces, an AFUE (annual fuel utilization efficiency) rating of at least 90 percent is best. Not only will these tips help save on your bill each month, but in some situations, you may even be able to claim a tax credit for your new appliance. Do your homework before buying any new system. Consumers have many newer, efficient options to choose from, such as heat pumps and biofuel stoves.

• 
  Ensure your HVAC system is properly sized. Undersized units run more in an effort to keep up, leading to higher bills, increased energy use, and strain that leads to more repair and quicker replacement. On the other hand, oversized units short cycle. Especially with air conditioners, short cycling can mean humidity isn’t removed, the house stays uncomfortable, and more energy is used. Again, it will also require more repairs and quicker replacement. Have a professional size your system using the Manual J, or at least calculate the proper size using a calculator that takes various factors into consideration.

• 
  Close doors and avoid heating or cooling unused rooms. If you use central heating and air, never close off more than a couple of vents, however, to prevent a buildup of pressure that could damage the ducts or appliance. Ensure return air vents can draw air freely to prevent smothering the appliance and lowering the HVAC efficiency.

• 
  Use space heaters to spot-heat areas when the outdoor temperatures don’t merit turning on the furnace. An efficient space heater can also boost the warmth in a given area, such as a child’s room, while keeping the temperature lower in the rest of the home. Choose space heaters carefully, looking for efficiency and a safe operating design.

• 
  Keep air conditioners – both central and window units – in the shade. Trim down grass and remove debris that may smother it. Both tips will help the air conditioners operate more efficiently.

• 
  Buy a snake, monkey, or similar animal. Not a real one – a draft-stopping one to set in front of your entry door. It will prevent warm or cool air from leaking to the outside.

Find more methods to save on your heating and cooling costs from your local utility company or government agencies at the local, state or federal level. Feel free to share your energy saving tips below!

Amazing opportunity to own a house, barn, and acreage for any business in Wasilla!

 

7010 E Fireweed Road

Wasilla, AK 99654

Price: $1,600,000

Phone#: 907-694-1234

Just Listed

Property Type: Single Family; Two-story Traditional

• Bedrooms: 4; Total Baths: 2; W/ RV Parking
• Year Built: 1995; Sq. Feet: 2,808; Lot Size: 7.18
  • Heat: Forced Air
• See a quick tour of this property!
  
  Click here for more exciting features:

Amazing opportunity to own a house, barn, and acreage for any business with Parks Highway frontage just off of Trunk Rd across from the Hospital.

Super nice home,

beautiful landscaping, 3 story barn with 1120sqft on each level,

552sqft efficiency apartment above garage rents for $650 per month, 3 wells on the property.

Endless possibilities for Business, Farm, Horses, or build Commercial Building.

 

We also have vacant lots available.

Brought to you by:

Les Bailey & Associates Real Estate Team

Keller Williams Alaska Group

Direct: 907-694-1234

Toll Free: 1-800-784-2912

www.LesBaileyAndAssociates.com

JPMorgan Eases Lending; Investors Make Way for First-Time Buyers

by Madhusmita Bora

 

Banks are Easing Lending Regulations

Here’s some good news for markets that are seeing a hike in home prices. JPMorgan Chase & Co., the country’s second largest mortgage lender, is easing their lending standards in those markets, thereby raising the hope for many potential buyers to become homeowners.

According to Bloomberg, the bank lowered its down payment requirements in Florida, Nevada, Arizona and Michigan. It said that those markets are no longer considered

“distressed.” The bank also lowered underwriting requirements for a refinancing program that caters to Federal Housing Administration borrowers.

JPMorgan is in good company. With the economy slowly rebounding and home prices and employment inching upward, other lenders such as Wells Fargo & Co. and Bank of America Corp. are also relaxing their lending standards. Financial institutions tightened their regulations and enforced the strictest lending guidelines in two decades after the housing collapse. To help the market recover, the Fed tried keeping interest rates near historic lows. And that seems to have worked.

With recovery underway, rates are rising again. This has put borrowers on the decline, making lenders more competitive in trying to woo customers.

“Historically, you make underwriting as tough as possible when people are lined up at the door and when the lines go away, you start loosening underwriting to get people back,” Guy Cecala, publisher of Inside Mortgage Finance, told Bloomberg. According to a recent Federal Reserve survey, more than 10 percent of banks have eased their lending regulations on low-risk residential loans.

Investors Backing Off

Now that home prices are ticking up, the droves of investors lapping up homes at bargain prices seem to be tapering off. That has thrown the doors wide open for first-time buyers, who were losing out in the competition to Wall Street investors.

“Investors helped stabilize a housing market that was in free-fall and they did so by taking advantage of fire-sale home prices,” Michael Feroli, chief U.S. economist at JPMorgan Chase & Co. told Reuters. “Now you see fewer bargain prices in the market and that’s a reason investor demand is coming off its peak.”

In June, investors made up 20 percent of all home buying. That’s the lowest since September 2012, according to Reuters. The plateauing of interest seems to be here to stay.

According to a recent survey by polling firm ORC International, 48 percent of investors surveyed said they will reduce home buying over the next year. That’s up from 30 percent in a similar poll conducted 10 months before.

This is all good news for first-time buyers, who were elbowed off the market by cash-heavy investors lapping up good deals. Sellers and lenders looking to quickly rid inventory from the market courted investors over first-time buyers, who were having a hard time getting approvals for mortgages. The investors stepped in and rescued the market by reducing inventory and thereby stabilizing prices. But, with mortgage rates rising and indications of the Federal Reserve scaling back its economy stimulus, investors are now pulling the brakes. This means less competition and more of a level playing field for first-time buyers.

Foreclosures Down

Foreclosure filings in August hit the lowest level in nearly eight years, according to RealtyTrac. Increasing home prices and fewer underwater borrowers have helped in the decline, according to CNN.

Initial foreclosure filings last month dropped a whopping 44 percent to 55,575. “This is a strong indicator that the crisis is over,” Daren Blomquist, vice president at RealtyTrac told CNN. “The foreclosure floodwaters have receded in most parts of the country, although lenders and communities continue to clean up the damage left behind.”

Surviving an Earthquake: Safety Tips for Your Home

By Karie Fay

While your chances of being in “the big one” are very slim, if you live on or near a fault line, taking steps to earthquake-proof your home will ease your mind and give you a sense of control. Most are simple things you can do with a few dollars and a little bit of time.

Earthquake Home Inspection

Hire a licensed inspector or structural engineer to inspect your home, especially if it was built before the 1980s, or do it yourself if you have the knowledge.

 

When purchasing earthquake insurance, many companies require the homeowner to have a professional inspection. Some insurance companies offer significant discounts for retrofitting your home to resist earthquake damage. California requires sellers to disclose existing earthquake measuresand deficiencies.

Structural considerations for earthquake proofing include:

• Termites and pests. Termites have two purposes in life: to eat and reproduce. A termite infestation can cause your home substantial structural damage in a matter of several years. Other pests aren’t much better. Carpenter ants, mice and other pests can weaken your framing, chew through wiring, and cause damage that leaves your home more vulnerable in an earthquake. Perform regular pest inspections and take preventative measures to keep your home pest-free.

• 
  Mold, mildew and rot. Dampness can cause unsightly mold and mildew, which can eventually cause the material on which it grows to rot and crumble. Use vinegar or bleach to remove mold before it becomes a problem, and watch for signs of rot in your home’s wood framing, especially underneath the house if you have a raised foundation. Consult a professional if you find evidence of rot or extensive mold, especially black mold.

• 
  Rigid gas connections to appliances. Hire a professional to replace these with flexible stainless steel gas connectors. In an earthquake, rigid connections can shear off, leading to dangerous, explosive gas leaks.

• 
  Plumbing. Have a plumber replace and secure old, rusted or loose water pipes. Both plumbing and gas lines should be supported every 4 feet. Also, check plumbing connections to ensure you have no water leaks. Keeping your house in good repair is an important part of earthquake preparedness.

• 
  The chimney. Make sure it’s in good condition and, most importantly, secured to the building with galvanized strapping or similar material. Consult a contractor for further information and assistance.

• 
  The foundation. Look for significant cracks – 1/8-inch wide or greater – or signs of crumbly concrete. If the foundation is poured-concrete (versus concrete blocks or a slab foundation) try tapping on it with a hammer. If you hear a dull thud instead of a sharp ping sound, contact a professional.

• 
  Anchors. Not only must the foundation be sound, but the house must bolt to the foundation at least once every 6 feet. Most modern houses in earthquake zones already meet these code requirements. A professional inspection will uncover any concerns.

• 
  Shearing panels. Homes with raised foundations have short cripple walls that rest between the mudsill and the floor joists, creating the crawl space boundaries. These will easily crumble during an earthquake unless reinforced with a minimum of ½- to 5/8-inch plywood. Other areas, such as around double doors and picture windows, also require plywood sheathing for greater rigidity. Consult a contractor for further information and assistance in retrofitting your walls if necessary.

Earthquake-Proofing Your Interior

 

• Locate the gas valve on the gas line entering your home. Keep a wrench nearby so that it can be shut off in the event of an earthquake. Alternatively, purchase an automatic shut-off valve, which reacts to the earth’s trembling and closes the gas line.

• 
  Label or paint your water shut-off and the electrical shut-off – whether a fuse box or breaker box – to ensure they are easy to locate in the case of a major earthquake.

• 
  Strap down your water heater if it isn’t secured already. Tall and full of water, it’s apt to tip over during an earthquake. First, place a couple of wood boards between it and a plaster or drywall wall to keep it from banging against the wall. Use plumber’s tape – a metal strapping – or strong nylon at the top and in the middle to loop around the water heater, and nail or screw the ends to nearby studs.

• 
  Anchor freestanding heaters such as a woodstove. In more severe earthquakes, these can move and have even been known to tip over completely. Drive bolts through the feet into the concrete or other subfloor material.

• 
  Secure other appliances, such as the stove, refrigerator, freezer and microwave, to ensure they don’t fall or move during an earthquake. Use foot clips and anchor clips to attach to the wall and floor as applicable. Follow product instructions for best results.

• 
  Bolt down tall furniture, dressers, bookshelves, freestanding cabinetry and other bulky items similarly, or use strapping. Avoid cheap or flimsy materials such as plastic, picture wire, Velcro and L-brackets. According to Kevin Bartholomew, an earthquake loss-prevention professional, you should have a 3 to 1 safety margin. In other words, if the object weighs 100 pounds, you want the anchor system capable of withstanding 300 pounds of pressure.

• 
  Install childproof latches on the refrigerator and cabinets throughout the home to prevent flying dishes, medicines and sundry supplies. These are cheap and easy to attach.

• Protect breakable items you seldom use, such as your fine china, by inserting sheets of foam between or around the items.

• Line cupboard shelves with nonskid shelf padding to help prevent damage to the contents.

• 
  Place your television on a low shelf on your entertainment center. Reinforce wall mounts to provide greater stability.

• Secure electronics such as stereos, computers and accessories with braces and fasteners, bungee cords or strapping.

• Move heavy items closer to the floor to give them less distance to fall.

• Store chemicals and hazardous objects in secure locations when possible, away from heat or flame.

• 
  Brace ceiling fans and light fixtures.

• Secure pictures and other wall hangings. Use safety hooks or whatever works best for you – double-sided sticky tape, Velcro, sticky putty and other products work well with light items.

• 
  Move beds to interior walls when possible. Avoid putting them in front of windows or underneath any hanging object.

• 
  Anchor home gym equipment to the floor. Store accessories in a secure location.

• 
  If your windows contain regular glass, replacing them with tempered or ceramic glass – both of which are stronger and break into small pieces similar to car windshields – is expensive but effective. A cheaper alternative is installing safety film on the windows. A thin sheet of acrylic bonds to the glass, making it harder to break. Consider hiring a professional who knows how to prevent air bubbles under the film.

• 
  Don’t forget your garage. Look for things that could fall and damage cars or people. Use straps and brackets to secure items on the walls and hanging from the ceiling. Plastic tote containers and netting also come in handy.

• 
  Secure barbecue grills and propane tanks, whether portable or permanent. Bolt large propane tanks to the concrete pad.

Safety Measures and Preparation

Other earthquake safety measures include writing down emergency numbers, having escape plans and practicing them, and designating someplace as a meeting point.

To say your home is truly earthquake ready, keep a flashlight and a pair of shoes under your bed so if the worst happens at night, you can see and walk safely. Finally, purchase or build a first-aid kit and a stash for an emergency supply. Include potable water, non-perishable foods, a blanket or two and important papers such as birth certificates and insurance papers. Don’t forget to include items for your pets as well. Get the family involved in making this survival kit, and keep it in an area easily accessed by the entire family.

Window Film Benefits, Types and Techniques

by Karie Fay

Whether you want to lower your cooling bill or help safeguard your home, there’s likely a window film perfectly suited to your needs. Sometimes, the line even blurs between window films that enhance insulation and those that provide security – you may be able to find one that offers the benefits of both types.

Here are some important tips to consider as you select and install your window film.

Insulating Window Films

For year-round comfort, consider an insulating or thermal window film. Insulating films reflect the sun’s heat during the summer while helping retain the home’s warmth during the winter. This translates into lower cooling and heating bills – which means they actually pay for themselves with the money you save.

Insulating window films also block up to 99 percent of UV light. This helps prevent fading of your furnishings and floors. Insulating window films may also reduce VT – visible light transmission – to some extent. This helps darken the room and reduce glare on televisions and mirrors. If you want more light, select a film that allows VT instead.

Some insulating window films may qualify for a local, state or federal tax credit. You may also find that your insulating film qualifies for points towards LEED certification for homes (a standard of energy efficiency and “green” building design).

Safety and Security Window Films

Specially designed security window films offer your home protection. They actually increase the shatter resistance of your window glass; some security films are rated strong enough to hold broken window panes and fragments in place even when shot by small caliber gun, and possibly during an explosion, according to the manufacturers. This means increased safety for your family in the event of a natural disaster such as a hurricane, or from a robber aiming for a quick smash-and-grab.

When shopping for security window film, check the UV blocking ability, the VT rejection rate and other features. Look at the specifications, such as what it’s made from and the thickness of the material. Do your homework: Considering the purpose of this film type, comparison shopping is a good idea.

Key Concepts

Knowing these terms will help you understand the slight differences in window films while you shop.

• 
  Light Transmission: Police officers use a light transmission score to determine if an automobile’s windows are tinted too dark for state law. For accuracy, they must use a special instrument that measures the light transmission; the lower the number it scores, the darker the tint. For a home, a film measuring around 50 percent light transmission balances glare reduction with light visibility.

• 
  Shading Coefficient: In the energy field, the shading coefficient is a measure of the net benefit of a window treatment to prevent or reduce heat gain from the exterior (the sun and environment). Films with a shading coefficient of .50 or even lower are best.

• 
  UV Rejection: The sun emits ultraviolet A and B rays. A UV-rated film blocks a given amount of these rays. UV rays are largely responsible for fading carpets, furniture, decorative items and flooring.

• 
  Visible Light Transmission and Reflectance: While shopping, you’re likely to see mention of VT or even visible light reflectance. VT reflectance is a measure of the amount of VT that’s reflected away from the window due to the film. The higher the film scores, the shinier it will appear from the outside.

• 
  Solar Energy Rejection: This refers to the film’s effectiveness at repelling UV and VT rays as well as infrared heat – the warmth that radiates from the sun via infrared light waves. The higher the number listed on your film, the more it insulates your windows.

• 
  Film Thickness: Each film will list a product thickness, expressed in either microns or millimeters (1 mil is equal to 25 microns). The thickness becomes extremely important when selecting security films. The thicker the film, the stronger and more shatter-resistant it is. Quality security window films generally measure from 4 mil to 14 mil or greater.

Considerations

Here are a few tips to keep in mind during your film selection:

• Never apply window film to broken, chipped or cracked glass. Any film can create a rise in temperature within the glass, which can lead to shattering.

• 
  As a general rule, do not apply window films to tinted glass to prevent overheating from thermal absorption, which may cause the window to shatter. Also avoid Plexiglas and similar glass replacements. Tint, when applied to Plexiglas, may create outgassing – the release of chemicals in the plastic.

• 
  Avoid altering the film. Applying chemicals, cutting a decorative pattern or cleaning with abrasive cleansers may damage the film or lessen the intended benefits it offers.

• 
  If your window is curved, look for a film designed for use on curved surfaces.

• 
  Some films are removable and reusable. Others are permanent, so look for the kind you prefer.

• 
  Look at the warranty offered before purchasing. The longer the warranty, the more you can expect it to perform well for a greater length of time.
  
  Check for a guarantee against cracking, bubbling and fading.

Window Film Installation Techniques

While you can hire an installation professional, it’s not necessary. Installing window film is typically a rather simple DIY task. The most important things to keep in mind are to take your time and pay attention to detail. Patience and determination will help ensure a successful installation.

Before you start, always completely read the product installation instructions. These may vary somewhat from general instructions found here. For instance, security film will specify to cut the film slightly larger and then attach the film to the window frame as well. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when there’s a deviation from general guidelines.

Install your window film on a mild day when the temperature is between 50 and 60 degrees. Freezing temperatures or extremely hot, sunny weather may interfere with application and curing time. Curing time may range from four to eight days or longer.

The basic installation procedure for most window films involves the following steps:

• Remove the current window treatments (blinds, shades or curtains) and clear the area.

• 
  Cover your floors with a sheet of plastic, garbage bags, newspaper, an old sheet or other protective material.

• 
  Clean the window: Use a gentle dish soap and water to thoroughly clean the window and remove grease, dirt and any contaminants. This helps film adhesion and ensures that you don’t memorialize your little one’s fingerprints in the window.

• 
  Dry the window: A squeegee works best, and is needed later.

• Cut a section of film, if it isn’t pre-cut, using a utility knife. Measure the window carefully and add 1 inch to the height and width to determine the film size.

• 
  Spray the window generously with soapy water. Wet your hands as well, and keep them moist during the film installation.

• 
  Remove the film backing carefully to avoid contaminating it by touching anything else. Have a helper assist you – especially if you’re working with a large window.

• 
  Spray the back of the film with additional soapy water.

• 
  Starting at the top of the window, position the film on the glass, centering and spreading it as you work down the window. Spray with soapy water as you work, and use the squeegee to move air bubbles to the film edges. The water helps prevent tearing the film.

• 
  Trim the film once it’s installed. Leave a 1/16-inch gap between the film and the window frame to allow the glass to expand and contract. (Security films may differ in this step.)

• 
  Allow the film to dry and cure. It should start to adhere within 30 minutes and cure within several days.

• 
  Eliminate air bubbles in the film by carefully pricking the bubble with a needle. Smooth by pressing firmly with your thumb.

Designing the Modern Nursery

by Alane Jewel

Gone are the days when pinks and blues were all you would see in nursery décor. In today’s modern nursery, anything goes! On one end of the spectrum, some parents create posh elegant nurseries with custom furniture, elaborate murals, and fancy lighting fixtures. On the opposite end, many parents select décor that grows with the child throughout the years, utilizing more gender-neutral colors or themes as a cost saver, especially when more than one child is planned for.

Whatever side you find yourself on, and whatever your budget, be sure to approach the room with creativity and beauty, and enjoy creating the room in which your child will dream and grow.

 

Picture via pregnant.thebump.com

 

Deciding on Colors and Theme

Have fun with this! Whether you decide to go gender-neutral and select shades of green, blue, yellow or brown or more traditional with pinks and blues, choose a fun theme that you enjoy or one that evokes that warm, cozy feeling that you desire for your baby thrive in.

 

Animal themes are both gender-neutral and a long-standing favorite in nurseries. They can be found in almost any color, which makes decorating around them a breeze. Nursery rhyme themes are also popular, as are utilizing classic characters from Disney, fairy tales or Beatrix Potter stories. Butterflies, birds, flowers and other elements inspired by nature are also often used. And sports themes are a timeless favorite that can grow with your child for many years.

Establish the theme with the bedding, and build from there. Area rugs, lamps and wall décor are all great ways to tie your theme together and can often be purchased in sets, which can also help reduce costs.

Furnishings

When it comes to furnishing your baby’s nursery, a few pieces remain standard and practical: the crib, the changing table/dresser and some sort of large comfortable chair for feeding and story time.

When shopping for these items, it’s important to consider purchasing pieces that can be used for several years. Many cribs can also be used for toddler beds. Consider utilizing a dresser that can be easily adapted to incorporate a changing table.

Depending upon space, selecting storage-friendly furniture can be equally important. Baskets under the crib or on the changing table are great ways to keep everything from diapers to books organized and handy.

Wall Décor

Large painted murals make a great statement and are fun for children. Large decals are also very popular since they are both easy to clean and remove. They are readily available online and can accommodate almost any theme imaginable.

Letters of the alphabet are often seen displayed on the walls or on shelving and can be painted in solids or prints to match your theme. Simply spell out your child’s name or use initials as an option.

Large prints or canvases are always great additions. Another idea is to have a custom-painted belly cast created to personalize the nursery and forever cherish that mommy-baby bond. This is a trend that is becoming more commonplace as kits are sold in baby stores.

Functionality

Don’t get completely lost in all the cute and cozy! It’s also important to keep function in mind when decorating a nursery.

Select flooring, such as hardwood, that is easy to clean. Utilize throw rugs, which are easier to keep clean, even when wall-to-wall carpeting is used.

Consider dimmer switches. These are great ways to establish a story or naptime setting. In addition, choose window coverings that can block out the sunlight, which can interfere with daytime naps.

Through the First Years

Keep these tips in mind when planning your baby’s nursery, but remember to balance the function with the fun to create magic and contentment for your most cherished love. You both will be spending a lot of time in the nursery, so design a room that you will love for these first years.

Save money on your home insurance with these smart tips

By Andrea Duchon

Reducing the amount of money you spend on home insurance can make a big impact on your wallet. Here are seven proven ways to help lower your home insurance payments.

Yahoo! Homes/Photo: Thinkstock

Are you interested in a purchasing a home, but concerned about the hefty home insurance bill that comes along with it? Or are you simply looking to cut costs where possible?

No matter what situation you're in, reducing the amount of money you spend on home insurance can make a big impact on your wallet.

To help, we've pulled together seven proven ways to lower your home insurance payments.

#1: Ditch the Dangerous Toys

Certain items like trampolines and swimming pools can seriously increase your insurance premiums, so you should think twice before purchasing them, says LiveWatch Home Security Systems CEO, Brad Morehead.

"Insurance companies know that trampolines are a huge risk, so premiums reflect the increased chance of injury because trampolines are one of the leading causes of emergency room trips for children," Morehead says.

In fact, nearly 68,000 children under 14 were treated in the ER for trampoline-related injuries in 2011 alone, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission.

If you already have a pool or a trampoline, Morehead says there are still ways to reduce costs:

"Make sure to use proper protective gear around a trampoline and securely fence in a pool, which is a requirement for many local building codes, anyway. Definitely let your insurance agent know if you implement some of these safety items or if you end up getting rid of a trampoline or pool as either move could lower your insurance costs," Morehead advises.

 

#2: Put Some Thought into Your Furry Friends

Did you know that the type of dog you adopt could influence your insurance premiums? It's true, says Morehead.

"Based on the actuarial data, certain breeds are deemed "aggressive" breeds and can cause your premium to go up. If your pup is a Rottweiler, Pit Bull, Doberman, German Shepherd, Akita, et al, or even a Great Dane (sorry Scooby-Doo), your insurance premium can be higher, even if your dog is a cute little puppy and hasn't ever harmed a soul," he notes.

Essentially, insurance companies consider homeowners with certain dog breeds to be more of a risk, and will charge them a higher premium as a result.

And their cause for concern is warranted, as "Dog bites accounted for more than one-third of all homeowners insurance liability claims paid out in 2012, costing over $489 million," according to the Insurance Information Institute's website (III).

#3: Insure Your Home, Not the Land

It may be standard practice to insure the land that your home is built on, but Andrew Schrage, co-owner of the personal finance website, moneycrashers.com, says doing so could be money misspent.

"There is no reason to insure the land that your home sits on because the majority of damages involved in an insurance claim come from inside the home, and not the land," Schrage says. "You can save a lot by only insuring your home and not the surrounding land."

Schrage says the amount you can save will vary greatly based on the size of the lot and the area your home is in. You should ask your insurance provider to break down the specific costs for you.

#4: Secure Your Home

By protecting the most important asset in a home insurance situation - your home - you can lower your costs pretty easily.

In fact, "Most insurance companies provide 2 percent to 15 percent discounts for devices that make a home safer - dead-bolt locks, window grates, bars and smoke/fire/burglar alarms," notes the III.

And this makes a lot of sense, says Morehead.

"Obviously if you have necessary precautions in place when disaster strikes, your damage may be less than someone without those protections. And less damage means few claims to the insurance company," Morehead explains.

#5: Start or Partake in a Neighborhood Watch

Starting a neighborhood watch can actually reduce your home insurance costs, says Morehead.

"Neighborhood Watch is a catalyst for lower insurance rates because the group's presence is proven to lower crime rates," he says. But don't think that just putting up a fancy sign will do the trick.

"While insurance companies do not give discounts for the watch group itself, when these organizations actually help lower crime rates, they can save homeowners money in two ways," explains Morehead. "Insurance companies use crime rates as part of the algorithm to determine rates: When crime rates decrease, so too do homeowners' insurance costs."

 

#6: Make Smart Renovations

If you're remodeling your home, think about renovations that can make your home more disaster-resistant. Doing so could reduce your home insurance payments.

In fact, "You may be able to save on your premiums by adding storm shutters and shatter-proof glass, reinforcing your roof or buying stronger roofing materials," notes the III.

Another way to make you and your home less of risk to insurers is to update your heating, plumbing, and electrical systems, according to the III. By replacing these old systems, you'll lower the risk of fire and water damage to your home and in effect, help lower your premium.

Of course, discounts for specific renovations will vary depending on the insurer, so make sure to shop around to see what kind of discounts are available.

#7: Make a Move

This tip isn't for everyone, and certainly isn't as easy as installing a security system. However, if you're thinking about moving or are currently looking for a home, did you know that the proximity of your home to other facilities could have a big impact on your insurance premium?

Surprisingly, homes more than five miles away from a fire department can come with a premium that is 20 percent or  higher, says Schrage. But he notes that by moving closer to the firehouse, you can drastically reduce your home insurance costs.

"If you live closer to a firehouse, then emergency services can respond quicker and have a chance to limit the damage," says Schrage.

The geographical area surrounding your home can also play a big role in how much your insurance is.

"Homes located near forests - usually in the western portion of the country - are also more susceptible to damage from a wildfire, thereby making them more costly to insure," says Schrage. "Similarly, homes located near the coast - generally the East Coast - are more prone to windstorms and hurricanes, and therefore may come with a separate additional deductible and a higher premium."